Hatchi Series at the Breadbar – Ricardo Zarate

Ever since I started going to the Hatchi dinner series at the Breadbar in Century City, I find myself anxiously counting down the days to the following event, as it only seems to get better and better each month.  Since June 2009, the Breadbar has featured a new guest chef every month at their innovative Hatchi event where these talented chefs serve 8 dishes for $8 each.  Hatchi means 8 in Japanese, and chefs prepare 6 savory and 2 sweet dishes for this one night-only event.  They are given complete freedom to express their culinary creativity and showcase their unique personality and style.  It’s also a wonderful opportunity for diners to sample new foods in a casual environment for a low price.

Past events at the Hatchi series spotlighted distinguished chefs such as Debbie Lee, Michael Voltaggio, Roberto Cortez, Remi Lauvand, Eda Vesterman, Waylynn Lucas and Marcel Vigneron.  January’s event featured Ricardo Zarate, executive chef at Mo-Chica in downtown LA.  Mo-Chica is a small restaurant inside of the Mercado La Paloma that serves contemporary Peruvian cuisine.  Although they’ve been open for less than a year ago, they’ve already created quite a buzz with their luscious ceviches and hearty stews.  Chef Ricardo Zarate, who hails from Lima, incorporates  local ingredients and fresh produce to create beautiful dishes that stay true to Peruvian culture and flavor.   However, there’s also another side to him.  He’s worked in upscale Japanese restaurants such as Zuma and Tetsuya in London, and most recently as executive chef at Wabi-Sabi in Venice.  I was excited to see how he would express this marriage of Peruvian flavors and Japanese aesthetics into his one night event at the Breadbar, called Peru Mucho Gusto (Peru, Nice to meet you).

I knew it was going to be a fun and special night when I was greeted at my table by young and beautiful Fumi, the Japanese owner of Mo-Chica.  ‘Akemashite omedetou gozaimasu!’- Happy New Year! she shouted with a huge smile, as she handed us Mo-Chica keychains wrapped inside traditional Japanese otoshidama bags.  It’s a tradition in Japan for children to receive money from relatives and family friends during New Year’s day, and it’s usually presented inside small decorated envelopes.  Getting otoshidama from all of my relatives was the highlight of New Year for me growing up in Tokyo.  It had been a really long time since anybody gave me one, so I really appreciated this fun act of hospitality. She also passed out roasted peanuts served inside origami kabuto (samurai helmets) made with Japanese newspaper.

We ordered a round of the Pisco Sour 2010 cocktail, made with pisco, fresh lemon juice, orange juice and egg whites. The egg white foam was light and airy, and the balance of tequila with citrus flavors was delicious.

The first of 8 courses was the Sopa de Coliflor, purple cauliflower soup.  The purple hued soup was garnished with generous chunks of crispy pancetta, a drizzle of feta cheese dressing and cilantro, and offered with a side of crispy croutons.  I loved the smooth and silky texture of the warm soup, and the different layers of flavors in each bite.  There was a hint of sourness in the soup that made it really refreshing, and the tartness of the feta cheese and cilantro kept it alive.  This was one of my favorite dishes of the evening.

The Causa Trio of peruvian potato salad with 3 different seafood toppings was Chef Zarate’s interpretation of 3 classic sushi rolls.  Here we can see our first hint of how Zarate integrates Japanese and Peruvian concepts.  Each piece had the same base of yellow potato salad that was soft and light.  The one to the left in the photo had a topping of chunky scallops with mentaiko sauce.  Mentaiko is spicy marinated pollock roe, which is commonly used in Japanese cuisine.  The center piece was topped with a mixture of shredded blue crab with mayo and huancaina sauce.  Huancaina sauce is a thick yellow Peruvian sauce made with aji amarillo, or yellow Peruvian pepper.  The preparation to the right featured spicy blue fin tuna with rocoto aioli, made with hot rocoto chili peppers from Peru.  I loved Chef Zarate’s playful and unique Peruvian twist on the popular spicy tuna, blue crab and spicy scallop rolls.

Mo-Chica has made a name for itself through its famous ceviches, and I was curious to see what kind of ceviche Zarate was going to serve at this special event.  Ceviche Mixto that night was made with tairagai, uni and sea bass marinated in leche de tigre sauce.  Although each Latin American country has their own version of ceviche, the Peruvian style is often served with leche de tigre (tiger’s milk) sauce that is made with Peruvian peppers (in this case aji amarillo peppers), lime, onions, garlic and a hint of Pisco.  Of course there’s no actual tiger’s milk in these astringent tart marinades, but its potency is believed to be an aphrodisiac and a cure for hangovers. The chunks of marinated tairagai and fish were nestled inside of a tairagai shell, topped with cilantro and slices of red onion.  Slivers of uni added a sweet creaminess which mellowed the sharp acidity of the ceviche, and the large kernels of giant Inca corn added great texture to the dish.

It was around this time that they introduced the live band and dancers for the Festejo performance. This was a first for the Breadbar Hatchi series to have live entertainment, and we were lucky to have scored front row orchestra seats to this spectacular show.  The general mood at the event was already festive, but the live music brought the energy level up a whole notch.  The drummer beat on the cajón box drum with fire and intent, while the Peruvian flute narrated a tale of Incan history and passion.  The female dancer swirled and twirled very gracefully around the small space in front of the pastry case, smiling happily yet seductively, and the male dancer pounded his bare feet into the concrete with determination and rhythm.  It was an astounding performance, and everybody put down their forks to watch this mesmerizing show.

Tiradito de Pescado was a hamachi carpaccio served with sundried tomato yuzu dressing and topped with a mixture of chopped green onions, tomatoes, Peruvian corn and cilantro.  Tiradito is a Peruvian dish that is more like a carpaccio, and its origins come from sashimi-eating Japanese immigrants who came to Peru.  Although similar in concept to ceviche, tiradito dishes feature raw fish that is sliced long and thin in sashimi style, and is not doused in an onion-heavy marinade.  The hamachi slices were beautifully marbled with light yet flavorful fat, and the yuzu dressing was the perfect complement.

Carapulcra, which is an old Peruvian stew that is traditionally made in clay pots with dried potatoes, chiles, peanuts and spices, was reinvented in a contemporary style with roasted black cod.  It is believed that Carapulcra is the oldest Peruvian stew and that its ancient origins go back to pre-Incan times.  A perfectly cooked piece of moist black cod was topped with a tangy chimichurri sauce and chewy bits of fried pancetta.  The sour and bitter flavors of the chimichurri was a wonderful contrast to the earthy carapulcra made with peruvian sun dried potatoes.  I was in love with the hearty potato stew, and although it was the first time that I had carapulcra, it gave me the same feeling of comfort and warmth that ramen does. The next time that I’m craving comfort food, I’m going straight to Mo-Chica to get me some carapulcra.

Seco de Cordero represented pure traditional Peruvian cuisine.  This lamb shoulder stew was braised in black beer and seasoned with cilantro, aji peppers and cumin.  Peruvian canario beans, which are similar to Italian cannellini beans, added a gratifying dose of heartiness to the delicious stew, while the salsa criolla, made with sliced onions, tomatoes, cilantro and chili peppers, intensified the bursting complexity of flavors in each bite.

The tender chunks of lamb had absorbed all of the marvelous flavors in the stew, and we were literally fighting over this dish.  Now that I know that this dish is on the regular menu at Mo-Chica, I wish I hadn’t been so aggressive with my dining companions in eating most of the stew.  I almost lost myself and my manners in this captivating bowl of cordero heaven.

One of the 2 desserts that we had was titled Selva Negra- possibly after the Selva Negra cloud forest reserve in Nicaragua which is famous for producing great organic coffee, since the flourless chocolate cake looked like a cup of coffee.  The chocolate cake came straight out of the oven and was served nice and warm.  I really enjoyed the bright orange colored lúcuma ice cream with tamarillo sauce.  I had never even heard of lúcuma before this Breadbar event, but it’s an Andean subtropical fruit also known as ‘eggfruit’, that’s mostly found in Peru.  It tasted like a combination of very familiar flavors, and we were all trying to figure out how to describe its taste.  It reminded me of ube, Filipino purple yam, while another tasted sweet potatoes, and yet another tasted maple syrup.  The more lucent yellow tamarillo sauce, made from the tamarillo fruit which is native to Peru, had a tart flavor that reminded me of passion fruit and oranges.  This ice cream was to die for.

Last but not least, the 8th dish of the Hatchi series dinner showcased yet another Peruvian specialty.  Kiwicha Con Leche Y Esencia De Mazamorra was served elegantly in a martini glass.  Kiwicha, also known as amaranth, is a superfood of sorts, an Andean supergrain high in nutritional value that has been cultivated and used by the Incas and the Aztecs.  These fine round grains which almost look like quinoa, are the size of poppy seeds.  It was prepared with milk to make a dessert that resembled tapioca pudding.  The dark sauce poured over the kiwicha looked like rich chocolate, but was in fact made with mazamorra, or purple maize cooked with cinnamon and sweet potato flour.  Although this dessert looked sweet and heavy, it was surprisingly light and easy to eat.  Since I don’t have a sweet tooth, I really appreciated this simple and savory dessert.

And just like that, another successful and fun Hatchi event came and went like the wind.  Chef Zarate’s Peru Mucho Gusto event seemed to be over in a blink of an eye, since we were having so much fun.  With the delicious food, the fantastic music, intoxicating dancing and impeccable service from the Breadbar staff, this was the best Hatchi dinner so far for me.  I really enjoyed learning about all of these new foods and flavor combinations.  I realized that there is still so much out there in this big world that my taste buds haven’t experienced yet.  It motivated me to travel more and open myself up to new experiences and cultures.  Thank you Chef Zarate for introducing me to the dynamic flavors of your beautiful Peruvian culture, and for honoring my Japanese culture in your perfectly integrated dishes.

Mo-Chica

3655 S Grand Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90007

(213) 747-2141

Breadbar

Upcoming Hatchi dinner events:

February 25th – Iso Rabins, Forage

March 25th – Kuniko Yagi, Burning Sensation

April 29th – Saul Cooperstein, Deli 2010

Random trivia: Did you know that kiwicha, for its high content in protein, lysine, carbohydrates and minerals, is considered to be one of nature’s most potent foods?  This grain is packed with such high amounts of energy and nutrition that it’s part of the NASA energy food pack used by astronauts on their long trips in space.

Gordon Ramsay at the London – Part Deux

Cooking in the kitchen and inviting people into my home for a nice meal is one of the things that I enjoy the most in life.   I love the intimacy of sharing memorable feasts with special friends.  However, there are times when it’s nice to be on the receiving end- who doesn’t like to be pampered?  After a whole weekend of cooking and hosting for my birthday, I was ready to kick back for some fine dining in LA.  I couldn’t think of any other place to go for a relaxing lunch to celebrate my special day than the Gordon Ramsay restaurant at The London Hotel in West Hollywood.  Last year I celebrated another friend’s birthday there, and we had a spectacular meal.  In addition, one of my favorite sous chefs was working in the kitchen that day.  Chef Kishi did an amazing chef’s tasting lunch for me.

The restaurant greeted me with a wonderful bottle of René Geoffroy Brut Rosé champagne, premier cru.  This was one of the best champagnes that I have had in a very long time.  This champagne, from the Marne Valley in Champagne France, had a mellow yet accomplished taste that was full of fruity flavors.  It had a clean taste that slid across my tongue very smoothly.

We started off with this delicious amuse.  Scottish salmon gravlax with horseradish cream, kumquat confit and microgreens was an explosion of subdued sweetness and rich creaminess.  The tender cut of cured salmon was exquisite in both texture and flavor, and the hint of horseradish was perfect in drawing out the sweet and tart flavors of the kumquat.  Deep fried goat cheese balls in beet root sauce were warm, fluffy and light.

The seafood tartare, made with bluefin tuna, hamachi, wasabi tobiko, apple and daikon cubes, was topped with edible flowers and a generous heap of caviar.  The dish was garnished with ponzu foam, micro cilantro and lemon oil.  Through its many complex layers of flavors and textures, this dish was a carnival of delights in my mouth.  As the light ponzu foam collapsed in my mouth, I could feel the microscopic air bubbles tickle my upper palate and the tart flavors permeate up into my nasal passages. My tongue enjoyed the alternating textures of tender fish, crunchy daikon and apple cubes, and popping fish roe.  I loved the smooth gradation of salty and sour flavors, from the ponzu foam and lemon oil to the delicious caviar.

The duck confit risotto with shimeji mushrooms and maitake tempura was excellent.  I am a huge fan of Chef Kishi’s risottos, as they are always cooked to a perfect consistency.  The morsels of duck were plump and juicy, the tempura battered maitake was crunchy and light, and the light drizzle of truffle oil elevated the beautiful earthy aroma of this fantastic dish.

Monkfish wrapped in prosciutto with creamed brussel sprouts and zucchini was served with a side of cockles and mussels, and dressed with a thai curry sauce.  I expected this dish to be heavy due to the presence of prosciutto, creamed vegetables and thai curry sauce, but it was surprisingly light and easy to eat.  The perfect amount of saltiness from the prosciutto and thai curry sauce complemented the delicate flavors of the fresh fish and mollusks.  Although it was a shame to have to destroy this beautiful dish, I had no problems finishing it off to the last smidgen of sauce.

Braised pork belly proudly took center stage and flaunted its hat of pea sprouts and radish rings, while its mysterious side kick, a pig’s head croquette, sat on a bed of pea purée and pickled red onions in the background.  The slightly crisp exterior of the rolled pork belly was a nice contrast to the warm and moist meat inside, but it wasn’t until I inserted my knife into the unassuming croquette that the show took an abrupt twist.

The deep fried croquette, filled with pig’s head cheese, literally and figuratively exploded onto the scene with its glistening chunks of savory meat and collagen.  The intense richness of these ambrosial delights that had been braised for hours, made me melt in my seat in an amorous swoon.  In a matter of one bite, this once demure and reserved croquette proved itself to be the true showstopper.  The creamy pea purée and the acidity of the pickled onions were fitting stage props that made the pig’s head taste even better.  I gave a standing ovation to this shining star.

This refreshing dessert had layers of grapefruit confit, mint leaves, grapefruit granité, mint granité and grapefruit foam.  The progression of textures through the different icy cold layers was really enjoyable.  The tart and citrus flavors sent an invigorating splash of cool to my taste buds.

Our superb tasting menu concluded with this cute chocolate mousse birthday cake that made me really happy.  No matter how old we get, it’s always a special and innocent moment to blow out a birthday candle and make a wish.  With this amazing lunch at the Gordon Ramsay restaurant, I was able to finish my birthday weekend with a big successful bang.  Délicieux!

The Gordon Ramsay at the London, West Hollywood

1020 N. San Vicente Blvd.
West Hollywood, CA 90069
Ph: 1-866-282-4560

Random trivia: Did you know that kumquats, also known as ‘the little gold gems of the citrus family’, are the only citrus fruits that can be eaten ’skin and all’?  In fact, the peel is the sweetest part of the fruit and the pulp is sour.

Birthday Dinner Party- Part 3, Leftovers

The morning after my amazing birthday dinner party, I woke up with a slight hangover and trudged over to the kitchen.  Although my friends helped me wash the dishes, there was still a lot of cleaning up that needed to be done.  I looked around at the aftermath of the party and smiled – empty bottles of wine and champagne, birthday cards and gifts on the floor by the fireplace, the guitar casually resting on my couch, half empty champagne flutes in random places around the living room, the aluminum cylinder planter that was severely bent out of shape from using it as a drum during an impromptu jam session, and lots of dirty footprints on the kitchen tiles from the heavy foot traffic.  It was a raging party!

I was hungry, but my stomach had too much rich food and alcohol the night before, so I was craving comfort food.  Something Asian, something that would hit the spot.  I looked inside the fridge to see what I could eat.  There were 4 pork legs left over from the pig feast, and I remembered back to the numerous times that I visited Ruen Pair in Thai Town in the middle of the night for Khao Kha Moo.  It’s my favorite dish there, and it always hits the spot.  I got inspired and motivated to make it that day. 

Khao Kha Moo, stewed pork leg over rice, is a popular street food in Thailand.  It’s usually made with a fresh hunk of pork shank, but I figured that these roasted piglet legs would do just fine.  I crushed garlic cloves and Szechuan peppercorns in my granite mortar into a paste. 

I placed the pork legs into my beloved Le Creuset dutch oven and added water, black soy sauce, thin soy sauce, brown sugar,  Shaoxing rice wine and the garlic paste. 

In addition, I threw in some cinnamon sticks, star anise, black peppercorns and Chinese Five spice powder.  After bringing it to a boil, I lowered the heat to a gentle simmer and let it braise on the stovetop for a few hours.  The lovely smell of Thai pork stew filled my kitchen and permeated into the hallways.

After a few hours I opened the cover of my dutch oven to find this delightful surprise- rich, dark reduced sauce and tender meat that was starting to fall off the bones.  I stared at this pot in amazement and started drooling out of the corners of my mouth.  The skin and meat fell apart effortlessly, and I didn’t even have to use a knife to cut them for the dish. 

I bought a packet of pickled mustard greens from a market in Thai Town, and quickly boiled them in chicken stock.  I assembled the pork with these mustard greens over steamed jasmine rice, sprinkled fresh cilantro and stew jus over the dish, and served it with a green chili vinegar sauce.  I think it only took me 5 minutes to devour the whole thing.  It was delicious, and it really hit the spot.  Ever since Ruen Pair went under new management, the Khao Kha Moo hasn’t been as good there.  Thus, I can now confidently say that my Khao Kha Moo kicks Ruen Pair’s ass. 

I also had a ton of Mission figs left over from the feast.  I bought a whole carton, thinking that I would use it all in the seared foie gras dish, but I only used a half.  Figs are delicate fruits that go bad very quickly once they’re ripe, so I decided to make a fig compote that would keep in the fridge for weeks. 

I threw in these fresh Mission figs into my pot with a little bit of water, some left over red wine from the party, and a whole lot of port wine. 

I added some cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise, a squeeze of organic honey, and let it simmer in the pot for a while until the figs started to become soft and mushy. 

That evening, and for many evenings after that,  I enjoyed this luscious and dark port wine-fig compote over vanilla bean ice cream.  The dark and rich syrup was amazing with the vanilla flavors.  I’ve tried the compote with yogurt, pastries, seared duck breast and mascarpone cheese, but my favorite combination is vanilla ice cream. 

Left overs get a bad rap, but depending on what you do with them, they’re not so bad.  In fact, they can be amazing if you take the time to love them and nurture them.  All it takes is understanding how to cook them in a way that best represents their potential.  What’s sitting in your fridge right now, waiting to be transformed into something wonderful? 

Random trivia:  Did you know that khao kha moo was one of Samak Sundaravej’s favorite foods?  He was a famous celebrity chef and food critic in Thailand who became Thai’s Prime Minister in early 2008.  He even had his own cooking show called Tasting, Ranting that was a huge hit in Thailand.  Sadly, his term only lasted 9 months, after he was ousted due to controversial political and legal activities. Even more sadly, he just passed away a few months ago.  RIP.

We’ve already elected Hollywood actors as California governor and President of the United States.  It may not be too far in the future that one of our famous celebrity chefs becomes our nation’s next leader.  Bobby Flay?  Paula Deen? Todd English?

Birthday Dinner Party- Part 2, Feast

On the day of a big event, there is always something that goes wrong.  No matter how well things are planned in advance, and even if you make room for error and mishaps, something always happens which throws everyone for a loop.  I’m very meticulous and detail oriented almost to a fault, and I thought that I had planned my birthday dinner party perfectly.  However, without fail, something happened.  I got a call from my chef friend Haru the night before.

“Um…..how big is your oven?”

“……….Why?”

The roast suckling pig that we ordered had just arrived, and it wasn’t the petite piglet that I had envisioned.  I wanted to roast a small piglet whole, maybe even stick an apple in its mouth, and present this majestic plate to my dinner guests.  Instead, a humongous 3 foot long pig arrived at his doorsteps, and I shook my head in disbelief as I tried to figure out whether to laugh or feel stressed.  Thanks to my generous and experienced friend who broke down the large animal and prepped the individual pieces, the whole process went smoothly and we were back on schedule.

I was really excited for this birthday dinner party.  For some, the ultimate birthday fantasy may be dining at a 3 Michelin star restaurant, or a romantic getaway to the Bahamas, or a hot air balloon ride over Napa Valley, or a spa day with girlfriends.  For me, it’s inviting close friends over to my home and cooking for them.  It entails a tremendous amount of work, from shopping to cooking, cleaning my house to setting the table, from being hostess to sommelier, server to busboy, and let’s not forget what a chore it is to clean up the day after.  But I love every minute of it, and I’m truly happiest working in and around the kitchen.  Plus, dining at somebody’s home beats dining at a restaurant any day.  You know that the chef is cooking for you and only you, the seats are more comfortable and there’s more room to relax and hang out, you can play your choice of music at whatever volume you want, it’s private dining at the chef’s table, and hypothetically this ‘restaurant’ is open for as long as you’re there.  If you’ve had too much to drink, you can even spend the night there!

Menu for the 10 course meal

Farmers’ Market strawberries with sugar and freshly ground black peppercorns…

As my friends arrived with wonderful bottles of champagne and wine in hand, I greeted them a glass of chilled champagne and steered them over to the do-it-yourself station of succulent strawberries, sugar and freshly ground black peppercorns. You dip the flatly cut end of the strawberry into sugar first, and then the black pepper.  Pop it in your mouth, savor the wonderful combination of flavors for a while, then follow it with a swig of champagne.  The spicy kick of the black pepper surprisingly doesn’t overwhelm the strawberries at all, but instead enhances the sweetness of the fruit.

Kumamoto and Fanny Bay Oysters…

A big thank you to my friend Haru who patiently shucked all of the oysters for the party and helped with the cooking.  I learned how to shuck these bivalves in culinary school, but I knew that the seasoned veteran could do a better and faster job.  The crisp and clean flavored Fanny Bay oysters from British Columbia were perfect on their own, so they were offered with a choice of lemon wedges or shallot  vinaigrette.

The Kumamoto oysters from Humbolt Bay in California were also delicious.  We decided to experiment with these oysters that had a more milky and mellow flavor. Some were served with ponzu and chopped scallions.  Others were consumed with the shallot vinaigrette.  We also tried drizzling some argan oil over both the ponzu and the vinaigrette combinations.  All were equally delicious, but my favorite combo was the shallot vinaigrette with argan oil.

Fairytale and Petch Siam Eggplants with Purple Ruffles Basil…

The miniature eggplants that I found at the farmers’ market were kept in their original cute form and prepared in a simple pan roast with caramelized onions and a balsamic vinegar glaze. The purple ruffles basil gave the dish a spruced up appearance and a nice tart finish.

Yellow Wax Beans, Green Zebra Heirloom Tomatoes, Burrata, Jamon Serrano, Argan Oil dressing…

I got inspired by a fabulous dish that I had at The Tasting Kitchen in Venice, and I made a hazelnut, walnut and argan oil dressing to go with the beautiful salad.  The deep nutty flavors of the argan oil, along with the grounded hazelnuts and walnuts, complemented the beans and tomatoes.  Toasted cumin seeds were sprinkled on top to add an aromatic layer to this dish that was delicious with the fresh burrata and jamon serrano.

Seared Foie Gras, Mission Figs, Port Wine Reduction…

The whole lobe of Rougié foie gras was pan fried whole to give it an exquisite sear.  The oil that came out of the foie gras as it seared in the pan gave a nice sizzle as the pungent aromas attracted a crowd into the kitchen. Figs were prepared two ways to accompany these chunks of fatty heaven.  Half of the figs were quickly marinated in olive oil, salt and black pepper.  After the foie gras was removed from the pan, the other figs were placed cut side down on the pan to give it a nice caramelized glaze.

15 year Tawny Port was used to make a sweet and luscious port wine reduction sauce.  The plates were garnished with a bit of purslane, and it didn’t take long for everybody to pounce on these plates.  From the oohs and aahs emerging from the dinner table, and the feedback that I got from my friends, this was clearly the best dish of the evening.  I’ve had opportunities to share foie gras dishes with some of my guests at other restaurants in Tokyo and Los Angeles after this birthday dinner, but each time they told me that nothing would ever compare to this foie gras dish that they had at my party.

Yuzu and Rosemary Granité…

After the decadent foie gras dish, and before the roasted pork entrée, I served a yuzu and rosemary granité palate cleanser.  The distinct citrus taste of yuzu with subtle rosemary finish in these ice cold granité shavings was refreshing and invigorating.

Roasted Suckling Pig with Pee Wee Potatoes, Nante Carrots, Baby Spring Onions and Purslane…

As mentioned previously, this gigantic ‘piglet’ had to be broken down into separate parts and prepared individually, as there was no way that the 3 foot long beast would fit into my oven. The legs and belly were rolled and tied, and stuffed with a chopped mushroom and herb mixture that Haru made.  These were roasted in the oven until the skin was crispy and brown.

The riblets were also pan fried with rosemary twigs, then transferred to the oven for roasting.

My favorite part was the pig’s head, boiled for hours until the loose collagen in the skin became soft and wiggly, and the meat fell apart effortlessly.  The head was chopped into small bits and served on the plate with the other parts of the pig.  The gelatinous bits of the skin and ears, and the tender cuts of tongue had an amazing texture and flavor.  Fortunately there were left overs from the feast, and for a couple of days after the feast I simply piled it on top of some warm white rice for a comforting rice bowl dish.

The pee wee potatoes, nante carrots and baby spring onions were roasted in the dutch oven with garlic and rosemary.  These farmers’ market vegetables were amazingly sweet and delightful.

Each plate was also garnished with purslane that was tossed in a light vinaigrette, to temper the heartiness of the dish.  The different cuts of meat were all finished with an earthy flavorful sauce made from pork jus and white wine.

Passion fruit and Madagascar vanilla bean Crème Brûlée…

As predicted, by this stage of the meal, I was quite drunk.  My friends brought over an amazing selection of champagnes and wines, and we managed to go through all 14 of them. All were absolutely delicious and went perfectly with the entire meal.  I practically stumbled to the kitchen to start preparing the dessert.  After coating the crème brûlée ramekins with brown demerara sugar, I leaned against the countertop to try to keep myself from falling over as I burned these custards with my butane torch.  

I kept the passion fruit seeds to use them for garnishing the crème brûlée dish.  I was so proud that these babies came out perfectly.

French cheese plate with Quince paste, Jujubes, grapes and white truffle honey…

A few days before the dinner party, I went to Epicure Imports in North Hollywood to stock up on gourmet import items.  They offer a wonderful selection of French cheeses and numerous other delicacies.  I chose an Epoisse, Valencay goat cheese with ash, Camembert, and a Brillat-Savarin.  At Epicure, I also purchased quince paste and Sabatino Tartufi white truffle honey to pair with the cheeses.  The intensely aromatic white truffle honey went brilliantly with the goat cheese, and it was my favorite pairing.  Sliced fresh jujubes from the farmer’s market also went surprisingly well with all of the cheeses.

Chocolate tasting…

I bought a lot of interesting flavored chocolates from Bovetti and Vosges to try that evening.   Since we were all completely stuffed from the feast,we only tried 3 chocolates from my new collection for the chocolate tasting.  The dark chocolate with Szechuan peppers had a noticeable kick at the end that almost stung my tastebuds.  The dark chocolate with blue mint had a cooling effect on my tongue.  The Vosges chocolate called Black Pearl Bar, which had wasabi, ginger and black sesame seeds, was really interesting.  At first I could taste the ginger, but towards the end the wasabi undertones sneaked in to dominate the finale.  The chocolates were paired with an amazing dessert wine- Chateau Bernadou, Muscat de Frontignan from France.

It was a magical evening of good food, good wine and good company.  There was singing, dancing, guitar strumming and a lot of laughing.  Old friends reunited and new friendships were being made.  It was amazing to see all of these people from different walks of life come together on this one evening to gather around the table to share a special meal with me.  I can easily say that this was the best birthday that I have ever had, and it’ll be pretty tough to top this one.

Random trivia: Did you know that the passion fruit was given the name ‘passion’ by Catholic missionaries in South America who thought that certain parts of the fruit bore religious connections to the Crucifixion?  The corona threads of the flower symbolized the crown of thorns, the 5 stamens the 5 wounds, the 3 stigmas for the 3 nails on the cross, and the 5 petals and 5 sepals as the 10 apostles (excluding Judas and Peter).

Birthday Dinner Party- Part 1, Prep

“Which restaurant do you want to go to for your birthday celebration this year?”

Many of my close friends started asking me this question weeks before my birthday.  My friends know me well, and they knew that my ideal birthday celebration would be all about good food…but they didn’t know me well enough to figure out that I had better plans for my special day.  I couldn’t think of any restaurant in LA that would quite cut it, and I cringed at the thought of making my friends pay a lot of money for an extravagant meal in a stuffy environment.  I’m extremely blessed to have wonderful and caring friends who have been by my side through my ups and downs, and I wanted to spend my birthday with them in a special and meaningful way.  I love going out to restaurants for fine dining, but what I love more is cooking at home with friends and for friends.  There’s nothing I enjoy more than cooking in the kitchen and sharing a nice meal with people I love.  So I sent out an invitation to 12 of my closest friends in LA, and started brainstorming on ideas for my ultimate fantasy birthday menu.  No gifts please, I instructed my friends, but instead bring your appetite, good spirits, and lots of champagne and wine!

My brain exploded with a multitude of fabulous culinary ideas, and I had a lot of fun writing and sketching my ideas down.  For the whole entire week leading up to the big party, my hands were practically shaking from all of the excitement.  I knew that there were a few basic dishes that I had to have, and I consulted my chef friend Haru about ordering these items from the best suppliers.  I wanted to have an oyster bar that served two of my favorite types: Fanny Bay and Kumamoto.  I wanted a seared foie gras dish, as I had a whole lobe of Rougié foie gras from Epicure Imports that was patiently waiting in the freezer.  For the main entrée, I fluctuated between choices like lamb saddle, veal chop and flat iron steak, but in the end I decided to go grand and opted for a whole suckling pig.  The rest depended on what I found at the Santa Monica Farmer’s market.

Going to the Wednesday morning SM Farmer’s market is one of my favorite Los Angeles activities.  There are rows of food stalls with fresh seasonal produce and lots of specialty food items that cannot be found elsewhere.  I found vibrant Green Zebra heirloom tomatoes and yellow wax beans, which inspired me to make a salad dish with burrata cheese and slices of jamon serrano.

One of my favorite vegetable stands, run by a Japanese farmer, was offering some adorable miniature eggplants.  Small round green Petch Siam eggplants, frequently used in Thai cuisine, were calling out to me.  In the box adjacent to them were even cuter small purple eggplants called Fairytale eggplants which I had never used before, but I had to get anyway.

Although I had many ideas about how to serve them, in the end I envisioned a simple appetizer of pan roasted eggplants with a balsamic sauce.  I found some interesting Purple Ruffles Basil at the market to liven up the plating of this dish.

Beautiful purple Mission Figs were at the height of their season, and I found an abundance of them at the Farmer’s Market.  Ah, they would go perfectly with the whole lobe of foie gras!  Coupled with a port wine reduction, this would make for a decadent and delicious plate.

The seared foie gras dish would go perfectly after the salad and before the main course, but since the main course was going to be a whole roasted suckling pig, I realized that there needed to be a palate cleanser between the two dishes.  I had a jar of wonderful yuzu purée that was just waiting to be consumed, so I decided to make a yuzu and rosemary granité.  The bite of rosemary herb coupled with the citrus tang of yuzu was sure to cleanse any palate and refresh any taste bud!

I melted the yuzu purée in sugar and water in a pot and brought it to a boil, and just after taking it off the heat, I threw in a tea bag of freshly chopped rosemary leaves to let it steep in the mixture.  This way the granité would have just enough of a hint of rosemary finish instead of an overpowering flavor.  I saved some rosemary twigs for garnishing.  This dish was prepared the night before to save some time on the busy big day.

I found a ton of beautiful vegetables to accompany the roasted pig.  Small bright orange Nante carrots were super sweet when I sampled them at the stall.  Small pee wee potatoes came in purple, red and yellow, and I bought a bunch of these for roasting.  Beautiful baby spring onions came attached to their stalks and still covered in dirt, just picked fresh that morning. Purslane was at the end of their season, and I bought these as well, thinking that its distinct fresh citrus flavor would complement the heartiness of the main course.

Now what to do for dessert?  I wanted to do a dessert that could be prepared the night before, to save time in the kitchen during the actual party.  I figured that by the end of the meal, I would be quite tired and potentially quite drunk as well.  Cake?  Too boring.  Cupcakes?  Even more boring.  Tiramisu?  I already did that for a previous dinner.  I found beautiful and plump strawberries at the market, and started getting excited about them.  And then I ran into these tropical delights, and my heart skipped a beat.  Passion fruit- perfect!

Passion fruit zabaglione, parfait, mousse, ice cream, cheesecake…I considered many options, but when I rummaged through my kitchen that evening, I came across an old friend that I hadn’t seen in a while, and he whispered to me very softly, “Use me…”  My butane torch was calling out to me, and I knew then that the dessert for my birthday bash would be crème brûlée.  It’s easily prepared the night before, and people get excited when they see it torched.  I incorporated Madagascar vanilla beans into my  passion fruit crème brûlée mixture, and prepared these in the oven the night before.  After cooling them on a rack, they went into the fridge and waited until their grand debut.

For the strawberries that I bought, I opted to use them for a mini appetizer in the very beginning of the meal with the champagne toast.  Strawberries dipped in sugar and freshly ground black peppercorns is absolutely delicious, and it goes extremely well with champagne.

For the end of the meal, I planned to do a cheese plate.  I bought a bunch of beautiful cheeses at Epicure Imports, as well as some accompaniments for these cheeses.  I also found some fresh jujubes at the farmer’s market, and decided to pair these with the cheeses as well.  Finally, for the many chocolate lovers in the attending party, I bought an assortment of unusual flavored chocolates at Epicure Imports to do a chocolate tasting with a delicious dessert wine that I also bought there.

After a lot of tweaking and rearranging, the final birthday dinner menu was officially made on the morning of the party.  The menus were printed, the wine and champagne glasses were cleaned, the silverware was polished, the dishes were stacked, the music CD’s were chosen, and I was ready to go.

Here’s the final menu:

1    Strawberries with sugar and black peppercorn

2    Kumamoto & Fanny Bay Oysters

3    Fairytale & Petch Siam Eggplants with Purple Ruffles Basil

4    Yellow Wax Beans, Green Zebra Heirloom Tomatoes, Burrata, Jamon Serrano, Argan Oil dressing

5    Seared Foie Gras with Mission Figs and Port Wine reduction

6    Yuzu & Rosemary Granité

7    Roasted Suckling Pig with Pee Wee Potatoes, Nante Carrots, Baby Spring Onions, Purslane

8    Passion Fruit & Madagascar Vanilla Bean Crème Brûlée

9    French Cheese Plate with Quince Paste, White Truffle Honey, Jujubes, Grapes

10    Chocolate tasting

The next blog entry will feature photos and details of the actual feast!

Random trivia: Did you know that jujubes have a sweet smell that is said to make teenagers fall in love?  In the Himalayas, men carry jujube flower stems with them or put them in their hats to attract women.

Jar

In this City of Angels, it’s getting even harder to dine at an establishment that doesn’t have any connection to the popular showTop Chef. In fact, my last 4 blog entries about LA restaurants were all about chefs who competed on the show (Marcel Vigneron and Stefan Richter who competed on Top Chef, and Ludo Lefebvre and Michael Cimarusti who competed on Top Chef Masters).  It’s pure coincidence really, I didn’t plan it.  It’s just the state that the LA dining scene is in right now.  After all, even Top Chef maestro Tom Colicchio has his foot firmly planted in this city at his Century City restaurant Craft.

I recently had Sunday brunch with some friends at Jar, and it wasn’t because I was intent on continuing my accidental Top Chef tour.  We were looking for a nice brunch place around the West Hollywood/Beverly Hills area, and I remembered reading in the LA Weekly that Jonathan Gold praised Jar for its spectacular brunch. I was excited to try Jar, as I had never dined there before and I had heard of its numerous rave reviews.  I must admit that there was also a small part of me that was excited to try Suzanne Tracht’s food after being mesmerized with her inanimate and calm composure when she fired through the oyster shucking speed challenge during Top Chef Masters.

From the outside, it’s easy to miss this restaurant.  The thin name inscription is almost invisible against the nondescript drab brick building.  Once inside, you’ll be surprised at the stark geometric contrasts of dizzying round lamp discs, Neutra-esque low ceilings and sharp lines, and the modern furniture that is reminiscent of Eames design. The bar counter up front offers a great newspaper selection and makes it an ideal and relaxing place for a solo meal.

Jar is known as a modern chophouse where pot roast and steak are the most popular and loved items.  A place that specializes in hearty comfort food can’t go wrong with Sunday brunch.  Or can it?  We munched on their doughy coffee cake while we perused the menu.  Although I loved the dense texture of the cake, it was overpowered by the abundance of nuts.  The menu stuck pretty close to traditional brunch items like pancakes, scrambles, omelettes and french toast, but also offered more sophisticated versions of classics like lobster benedict and pot roast hash.

One of my friends got the club salad with bacon, avocado, beets, chicken and eggs.  The egg was perfectly soft boiled and the vinaigrette was light and refreshing.  It was a simple but safe and rather boring dish.

Shiitake mushroom and tomato scramble was also a good dish, but for over $13 it really wasn’t anything spectacular.  The accompanying home fries were dry and tasteless, and didn’t have that quintessential ‘cooked in oil with love’ flavor that brunch potatoes should have.

Oven roasted turkey sandwich with bacon, avocado, lettuce and tomatoes with homemade pickles and fries was a logistical nightmare.  The thick meaty slices of turkey were so heavy in this gigantic sandwich, that with every tiring bite all of the vegetables and avocado came spewing out all over the plate. The result was a complete mess that looked like a bomb detonated inside the sandwich.

I ordered the open faced prosciutto sandwich special with pesto, fried eggs, arugula and parmesan cheese.  I loved the savory layers of rich saltiness of the parmesan and prosciutto, which were beautifully complemented by the pesto sauce.  Although the egg was overcooked, overall this was a great sandwich that offered a lot of flavor.  The only downside was the rock hard bread that it was served on.  They had to get me a hearty steak knife to cut through that thing, and my upper arms got quite a workout.

The butterscotch pudding had a great burnt caramel flavor and luscious richness that reminded me of the butterscotch budino at Mozza.  Although it was a great dessert, our tastebuds got fatigued by its overwhelming sweetness after a few bites and we couldn’t finish this off even between the 4 of us.

Grapefruit sorbet brought a nice refreshing end to our somewhat disappointing mediocre brunch.  It tasted just like one of my favorite cocktails, campari grapefruit, and my palate was happily cleansed with this fresh and cheerful dessert.

On my way to the restroom, I passed by the bar and almost didn’t recognize the person sitting alone at the bar.  There she was, Chef Suzanne Tracht, sitting at the end of the bar reading the morning newspaper in shorts and a t-shirt, looking like she just rolled out of bed and was barely awake.  I wanted to tell her to get into the kitchen asap to put a stop to this mediocre food and protect the reputation and prestige that she had built for her restaurant before it was too late.

…but it was too late for me anyway.  It wasn’t just the passable food that won’t bring me back to Jar for brunch, but it was also the gloomy dark brown hues in the dining room, the cooped up feeling of being inside a room with low ceilings,  and the lack of natural sunlight coming in through the sparse windows that left me feeling depressed on this otherwise beautiful Sunday afternoon.  After all, we live in sunny Southern California.  Sunday brunch should be spent al fresco or at least in a more open and bright space where you can hear the birds chirping and the waves crashing.  A month later my friends and I had Sunday brunch at Coast at Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica.  Now that’s what I’m talking about.

Jar

8225 Beverly Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90048
323.655.6566 phone

Random trivia:  Did you know that the word ‘brunch‘, which is a combination of ‘breakfast’ and ‘lunch’, was coined by a British man named Guy Beringer in 1895?  Here’s a lovely quote from Mr. Beringer on the concept of brunch:

“Brunch is cheerful, sociable and inticing.  It is talk-compelling.  It puts you in a good temper, it makes you satisfied with yourself and your fellow beings, it sweeps away the worries and cobwebs of the week.”

Stefan’s at LA Farm

For those of you who watched Season 5 of Top Chef, not only will you recognize this cocky bigger-than-life character who lost to Josea in the finals, but will probably also have a strong opinion about him.  Stefan Richter, the Finnish born and German raised chef who made a lasting impact on viewers, has joined his Top Chef alumns in opening up shop in the LA restaurant scene. Last summer he took over the LA Farm space and vamped up the interior.

For those of you who have been to LA Farm, I’m sure you’ve wondered at least once or twice, why on earth somebody decided to build a restaurant there in the middle of absolutely nothing on the most deserted section of Olympic Boulevard.  Although that still remains a mystery, once you make it inside, the beautifully redone atrium patio with leather banquettes and firepits on all 4 corners of the room will make you forget all of that.

Most Top Chef fans will agree that despite his abrasive and in-your-face attitude, Stefan was the more talented of the finalists and probably deserved to win.  It’s not just his impressive resume which include stints at the Bellagio in Vegas, Enoteca Drago in Beverly Hills, the Bacara Resort in Santa Barbara, and his own catering service that give him the upper hand, but he clearly demonstrated superior skills and innovative dishes compared to his competitors.  At his new restaurant where he is very hands on in every part of the operation, you’ll not only get a taste for his food, but also a taste for his loud personality.  He really is just like you saw him on TV, and you’ll still either love him or hate him.

His new menu features items that stick to the basics that Angelenos love like steak frites, veal chop and seafood risotto, and he throws in the occasional twist with sliced pig’s head and pork cheeks.  However, what initially lured me to his restaurant was the small plates menu.   All items are $3-6 each, and everything sounded delicious and fun.

Classic deviled egg with Osetra caviar was surprisingly delicious.  I’m not a big fan of deviled eggs since it’s not the type of dish to ever wow anybody, but we ordered it at the urging of our server.  The subdued acidity and whipped creamy texture of the yolk mixture was delightful, enhanced by the clean saline finish of the caviar.

The Cali crudo, a tuna and halibut carpaccio with lime vinaigrette and cilantro microgreens, was also a winner.  The fresh slices of fish were superbly tender, and dressed with an aromatic and fruity olive oil.

The french onion soup with Gruyere crostini was too cute for words.  It’s hard to tell from the photograph, but these white porcelain soup ramekins were about the size of a nectarine.  Despite its petite size, each bowl was packed so full of flavor and content that it didn’t seem like I was having a mini portion.  The concentrated rich broth was overflowing with sweet caramelized onions, and the crostini had just the right amount of gooey Gruyere cheese to make me happy.  A lot of restaurants offer soup cappuccinos and warm soup shots, but this was the first time that I saw french onion soup being offered in a miniaturized portion.  I can’t even count the number of times that I had to forego ordering french onion soup because I didn’t want to fill up on a whole portion and not be able to eat anything else.  I fell in love with Stefan’s mini soupe a l’oignon for this reason- a mini portion with mega flavor.

We ordered one dish from the regular menu and all of a sudden it seemed gigantic in contrast to all of our other small dishes.  The smoked rabbit salad with pears, fried parsnips and house cured artichokes in a thyme vinaigrette was a well rounded dish.  The succulent and tender  rabbit was the best part of the dish, and I loved the crunchy deep fried parsnips bits, but the salad greens were limp and soggy from too much dressing.

Sonoma foie gras with cracked white pepper, smoked salt and griddled brioche was one hell of a sinful bite of pure fatty goodness.  These half-dollar sized treasures were so decadent, that its buttery and rich flavor was almost too much for me to handle.  At $3 a piece, it’s hard not to get a whole dozen of these tasty morsels.

Sweetbread schnitzel with warm potato salad reflected Stefan’s German upbringing.  The sweetbreads were a little on the gamey side, but the tartness and acidity of the chopped cornichons in the potato salad balanced it out perfectly.  The salad was absolutely divine and made in true German style.

Truffle arancini with lemon aioli was my favorite small plate of the evening.  Arancini, which are Sicilian deep fried rice balls, means ‘little oranges’ in Italian for its similarity in color and shape.  The rice filling in these arancini balls tasted just like the exquisite white truffle risotto that I cooked at home recently (in my previous blog entry).  The warm delectable rice balls were deep fried to a perfect crunchy exterior.  I could have easily eaten another 10 of these.

Although there were many tempting choices for dessert, we had to try the  mousse au chocolat with baumkuchen, more so to try the house made baumkuchen.  I love baumkuchen, and I usually buy it at department stores in Japan where it’s a very popular dessert.  This German ‘king of desserts’, whose name means ‘tree cake’ because of the many thin ring layers that it has, is usually baked around a round spit to make a large ring shaped structure.  The one at Stefan’s was a flat horizontally layered cake that was baked in a pastry pan.  I was hoping for a nice thick cut of the traditional ring shaped version, and was disappointed when they served me an ultra thin cut of flat cake that was brittle and dry.    The dark chocolate mousse was a bit too rich for my palate, and we couldn’t finish it off.

I absolutely adored the lollipop trio dessert for its concept, appearance and taste.  The photo below of the lovely trio is  one of my favorite food photos that I’ve ever taken. Each lollipop had a sweet and rich chocolate center that was surrounded by liquid nitrogen frozen ice cream.  The flavors of the evening from left to right were: passion fruit vanilla, eggnog with cranberry sauce, and red wine chocolate.   Although all three were outstanding, my favorite pick was the passion fruit vanilla for its smooth vanilla flavor and passion fruit tartness.  These lollipops were not only delicious and flavorful, but also exhilarating and fun to suck on.  Just looking at these cute stick desserts made me smile, and I regressed to childhood as we all giggled and laughed.

After our wonderful dinner we took a tour of the bustling open kitchen.  The comforting aroma of freshly baked breads from the pastry station in the back corner and the sizzling sounds of meat on the grill filled the air as we took in the intense energy emanating from the kitchen.

We followed our noses to the pastry station and congregrated around the chef who was in the middle of preparing 2 desserts.  The German cheesecake with fresh berries looked fascinating.

We also discovered the culprit of what gave off the tantalizing aroma that originally lured us to the pastry station.  Buchteln with maple pecan ice cream and crème anglaise was being assembled for an order in the firepit lounge.  Buchteln are sweet Austrian dumplings made of yeast dough and baked in a pan in tight clusters.  Each batch is freshly baked to order and dusted with powdered sugar during plating.

Our persistence in hanging around the pastry station paid off, for we got to sample the freshly baked buchteln (or maybe he gave it to us to make us drooling dimwits go away).  These warm pillowy delights, with a slight dusting of powdered sugar, were quite amazing on their own- I couldn’t even imagine how good the whole compiled dessert would be.

Once we returned to our seats, Stefan joined us for a couple of drinks and a lipsynching marathon to the rocking 80’s mix that was playing in the restaurant.   His signature song, Journey’s ‘Don’t Stop Believin’, came on at the height of our trip back to memory lane.  You can hear this song when you log on to the restaurant website.  Stefan chuckled as he told us that Steve Perry contacted him to ask why this song was on the website, and that Perry was coming to LA Farm for dinner the following week.

I went for a second visit last night and had a few other items off the small plates menu.  Since this was an impromptu late night visit to Stefan’s, I didn’t bring my camera.  I hope my words will be enough to convince you to try these wonderful tapas items at Stefan’s.  The beef tartare with poached quail egg was superb, although the accompanying breadsticks were a bit on the chewy side.  Tiny burger sliders called ‘Like a Big Mac’ with caramelized onions, cheese and lettuce ribbons, were tender and juicy.  They didn’t taste like Big Macs at all, but they were still just as satisfying even at these super mini sized portions.  Kumamoto oysters with green absinthe jello and a tart fennel vinaigrette were amazingly refreshing.  Parmesan truffle mousse with warm porcini crisps were oozing with wonderful truffle essence.  There was an extra drizzle of white truffle oil on the mousse that sent my truffle loving dining companion to truffle ecstasy.  The white mousse was so rich that it almost tasted like truffle butter.  A small portion of this was definitely enough though, as the intense salt content of it made me gulp down a gallon of water before bedtime.  Roasted California pistachios came in 4 flavors of tomato, guacamole, chile and garlic.  Apparently this is one of Stefan’s favorite items, as he finished off our entire bowl when he came over to hang out with us.

Stefan told us that he had just bought 2 other restaurants, one on Montana and one in Culver City.  At that time he couldn’t tell us where, as it was still an industry secret, but a recent press release revealed that he took over the old Cynthia’s on the Corner space on Montana and 15th.  Opening is planned for next week as Stefan’s on Montana.  As for the Culver City location?  We’ll soon find out.  Although I have yet to try his formal dinner menu at LA Farm, I really enjoyed the small plates concept.  Everything that we had was spectacular, and it was really fun to be able to sample an array of small delectable delights for an even smaller price.

Stefan’s at LA Farm

3000 Olympic Boulevard
Santa Monica, CA 90404-5073
(310) 449-4000

Random trivia:  Did you know that a man named George Smith invented the lollipop in 1908 to make it easier and less messier to eat hard candy?  He named this ‘hard candy on a stick’ after his favorite race horse named Lolly Pop.

Lake Lampy – France

When was the last time that you traveled, and where did you go?  What are your fondest memories from that trip?

When we reflect back on our travels, sometimes the memories that first come to mind or the ones that make us smile the most are not necessarily the ones most representative of that destination.  It’s usually not associated with the historical monuments, the world class museums, the ancient ruins or the 5 star hotels.  If it’s the first time that you are visiting a certain country, it’s almost obligatory to visit the famed sites and typical tourist attractions, but hardly do we ever really remember the details of these visits.  You can tell people that you’ve seen the Egyptian pyramids, London’s Big Ben and New York’s Times Square.  But when somebody asks you how your trip was, you’re more likely to go on and on about the romantic stroll through the park with the handsome boy you met in the train in Italy, how good that chicken skewer from the cheap food stall tasted after taking the wrong bus and getting lost in Ghana, or the charismatic matriarch of the small tapas bar in Madrid who chatted with you over several glasses of wine well after closing time.  Traveling is about those special moments that stay with you forever.  Sometimes, those moments are when we are simply doing nothing at all.

On the last full day of my recent trip to France, we did just that- nothing- and it was one of the highlights of the trip.  The entire trip was amazing, from the 3 Michelin star restaurants in Paris to working in the fields of my cousin’s vineyards in Burgundy, but by the time I got to my final destination Toulouse, my stomach was tired from eating extravagant food every day, and my body was tired from the repetitive cycles of packing and unpacking my suitcase.

We went to the local farmer’s market in the morning and bought fresh fruits and vegetables, charcuterie, bread and cheese.  We packed everything into my friend’s car and headed 80 km southeast toward Carcassonne to Lake Lampy, or Bassin du Lampy, in Aude.  The weather that day was perfect- sunny with some clouds, and a bit cool on the skin with no wind.  There were only a few other families on site that day, and it was quiet and peaceful.

We placed a big tablecloth on the soft green grass by the lake shore and opened up our picnic spread, which attracted a few hungry friends.  These 2 adorable dogs stayed with us for most of the afternoon, until we ran out of food.

We made a simple tuna salad with fresh farmer’s market vegetables, and dressed it with balsamic vinegar and olive oil.  The Toulousian saucisson with baguette hit the spot.  Soft cow’s milk cheese, blue cheese and a goat cheese all complemented the chilled dry rosé wine that we brought from home.  Although it wasn’t extravagant by any means, this fresh and simple meal was exactly what I needed at the end of my long trip, and it tasted so good as I laid out on the picnic blanket and took in the breathtaking landscape of Lake Lampy.

We took a leisurely stroll around the perimeter of the lake and enjoyed the slightly damp coolness of the dense forests.  The lake was perfectly still and its surface was as smooth as glass, showing off an impressive reflection of the cloudy sky above. There was nobody else along our path, and it seemed as if this was our secret world, a magical utopia where we were safe from others.

Time seemed to stop as I dug my bare toes into the fresh cool grass and looked at the peaceful scenery.  I laid flat on my back with my canine companion snuggled up to me belly up, and we both reveled in peaceful nothingness as we watched the dense clouds slowly glide by.  I emptied my brain and focused on my breathing, inhaling deeply and slowly to benefit from the fresh clean air and enjoy the pure earthy aroma of my surroundings.  The only sounds aside from chirping birds and rustling trees were of us munching crispy carrots and gulping wine.  This…..this was one of those ‘moments’.

Random trivia:  Did you know that a dog’s sense of smell is one of the keenest in nature, being able to smell up to 44 times better than man?  The bloodhound is the only animal whose evidence is admissible in an American court.

Georges- Toulouse, France

If you visit Toulouse, the ville rose, you don’t want to miss the breathtaking sunset view across the Garonne river.  The panoramic splash of colors across the expansive sky and its perfect reflection on the glassy water surface change almost every minute as the sun sets beyond the Pont St. Pierre and Pont des Catalans bridges.  After watching this romantic and magnificent sunset, we took a lazy stroll around the cobblestone backstreets of Place Saint-Pierre and sniffed our way to rue Blanchers.  Rue Blanchers is a small restaurant row of sorts with numerous cafés and restaurants offering international and local cuisine. 

Restaurant Georges was one of the first places we came upon and we knew immediately that it was the right place to dine.  We didn’t have to walk down the remaining stretch of rue Blanchers to check out our other options- the menu sounded tempting and the place was brimming with locals.  Georges’ menu represented Southwestern French regional cuisine with a modern twist, at reasonable prices.  Here you can order a Formule for 21 Euros (entrée + plat, plat + dessert, or 2 entrées + 1 dessert), or a Menu for 26 Euros (entrée + plat + dessert).

The atmosphere at Georges was friendly and casual, and happy diners filled the numerous tables that were tucked into every crevice of the small restaurant space.  Old paintings and antique photos adorned the brick exposed walls, and small stained glass lamps added to the rustic feel of the restaurant.   There was a tight narrow staircase that led to the downstairs cave and mini dining area that was stocked full of French wines.

Charlotte de Saint Jacques au coulis de crustacés – Molded shellfish coulis prepared in a cream sauce.  This dish was a modern twist on the traditional French dish of coquilles Saint Jacques, which is made with scallops in a white wine and mushroom cream sauce served on a coquille, or shell.  The soft and warm soufflé of delicious shellfish essence that stood proudly on a porcelain  scallop shell dish was just as good as any seared scallop I’ve ever had.

Forestière d’escargots en cassolette et son feuilleté à l’ail confit – Warm cassolette of escargots in a mushroom cream sauce accompanied by a delicious flaky slice of bread with garlic confit.   The cassolette was full of succulent meaty pieces of escargot that were even more delicious on top of the garlic bread, and the intense woodsy aroma of mushrooms filled the air.

Tartiflette au magret fumé- a hearty gratin of potatoes, cheese and smoked duck.  A tartiflette is a warm winter dish that originated in the Savoie region of the French Alps, and is particularly  popular in keeping skiiers warm at ski resorts.  Although a true tartiflette should be made with Reblochon cheese and smoky bacon, modern versions can be made with any type of melty cheese and other hearty meats.   Indeed, this tartiflette was very hearty and had enough power to keep a whole family warm during any winter chill.

Emincé de boeuf au coulis de foie gras – Beef sirloin tips served with a foie gras sauce.  These cuts of meat were slightly tough, though the rich savory foie gras sauce almost made up for it.

Tartare de saumon a la crème d’herbes fraîches – Salmon tartare tossed with herbs and cream, was quite delicious.  The minced cuts of salmon were fatty and marvelous, perfectly enhanced by the zing of fresh parsley and chives.

Le Régal des Capitouls: foie gras de canard mi-cuit, magrets sec et fumé, gesiers confits, saucisse au pot, mesclun de salade, confiture de figues, marrons, noix et sel guerande - this was a classic Toulouse dish that showcased all of the beautiful duck delicacies of the region.  Toulouse is particularly famous for its foie gras and sausages.  Cuts of foie gras mi-cuit, slices of smoked duck breast, gizzard confit and cuts of smoked sausages were served with preserved figs, chestnuts and walnuts.  I loved every tender and flavorful morself of duck on this amazing plate, especially the smoked gizzards that had more texture than the other cuts.  The more I chewed on the gizzards, the more these smokey flavors permeated my taste buds.

Fondant au chocolat - chocolate cake with a somewhat molten center was decadent. The exterior was ever so slightly flaky, adding a textural contrast to the silken interior.

Crème brûlée aux framboises fraîches - crème brûlée with whole raspberries inside was quite flavorful, and the four of us finished it very quickly.

Our dinner at Georges was a fantastic experience, and it was a perfect treat to succeed the amazing sunset that we saw over the Garonne river.  Gratifying rustic French cuisine served by honest caring hosts at Georges is an experience not be missed on your next trip to Toulouse.  Michel Sarran, with 2 Michelin stars, is perhaps the most famous restaurant in Toulouse, but I also recommend Georges if you and your wallet want to take a break and keep it casual and homey.

Georges

4 rue des Blanchers

31000 Toulouse, France

+33 05 34 44 95 92

Open 7 days a week

Lunch 12 to 2pm, Dinner 8-11:30pm

Random trivia:  Did you know that the scallop shell is regarded as a symbol of fertility?  That’s why many paintings of Venus, the Roman goddess of love and fertility, also depict a scallop shell.  Botticelli’s famous painting in Firenze’s Uffizi gallery, The Birth of Venus, shows a beautiful and serene Venus emerging from the sea on a scallop shell.

Botticelli's 'The Birth of Venus' copied from Wikipedia

Toulouse, France

In the sunny southwest of France, close to the Pyrénées mountain range, lies the pink city of Toulouse.  Easily accessible by train or plane from Paris, Toulouse has been called the ville rose for its rose colored brick buildings in the historical center.  Being the fourth largest city in France after Paris, Lyon and Marseille, Toulouse is not only known for its universities, but also as homebase of the European aerospace industry.

The historical center of this quaint and lovely city is easy to explore on foot, although it’s more fun to explore by bicycle.  There are numerous bike rental stations conveniently scattered throughout the city so that pick up and drop off can be done at any of these stations. By swiping a credit card, one can rent these bikes for 1-2 Euros a day. On a recent trip to Toulouse, my friends and I took this bicycle tour of Toulouse, and it was one of the most fun activities that I had done in a long time.  The weather was sunny and the wind was low, and we set off on these two-wheelers through this charming pink city.

We weaved in and out through the narrow cobblestone streets lined with beautiful old buildings.  The first sight that we saw was the majestic Basilique St. Serrin, just down the street from my friend Olivier’s apartment.  It’s the largest Romanesque basilica in the western world, and the signature octagonal bell tower popped against the dramatic cloudy sky.

The Cathedrale St. Etienne has a unique exterior that looks like a mishmash of different architectural styles, since it was constructed by joining two incomplete churches.  Once inside, you can also appreciate the 2 different styles of Gothic architecture that are also structurally askew.

We bought delicious Indian chicken curry and tandoori chicken wraps to go, put them in our cute little baskets on the front of the bicycles, and headed to the serene Jardin des Plantes for a picnic.  On that Sunday afternoon the park was alive with smiling joggers, university students lost in their textbooks, lovers cuddling on their blanket and families enjoying their quality time playing games.  I love the feeling of grass and moist soil on my bare feet- it’s a good feeling to take off my shoes from time to time and really feel the earth under every part of the soles of my feet.  With the sun filtering through the green trees and caressing my face with its gentle warmth, the lullaby of laughing children in the distant background and a content belly full of good food, I drifted off into a quick postprandial snooze…

…but not for long, as we had a lot more pedaling to do.  The 150 mile long Canal du Midi is the oldest canal in Europe still in use, and has been designated a UNESCO world heritage site.  It felt exhilarating to pedal along this picturesque canal that was beautifully lined with lush green trees and where people still live on crazy looking old boathouses. 

The Place du Capitol, the epicenter of Toulouse, is a place of public gathering.  One can sit at any of the numerous outdoor cafes to people watch against the background of the majestic town hall and opera house.  When we went there, there was a demonstration going on in one corner of the plaza, while street vendors tried to entice people with paintings and trinkets on the other end.

After we returned our rental bikes to one of the rental stations, we walked over to the Garonne river to watch the beautiful sunset.  As the sun disappeared behind the pristine bridges of Pont Saint- Pierre and Pont des Catalans, the expansive sky captivated us with an awe inspiring panorama of lights, patterns and colors.  We talked about lost loves and new loves, as we  sat on the banks of the Garonne and stared at the sky until it turned dark.

Naturally, this  full day adventure made us hungry.  What shall it be tonight?  Which Toulousian specialty shall we indulge in?  Perhaps the most typical dish that represents Toulouse is cassoulet, a rich slow-cooked bean stew with white haricot beans, duck confit and pork sausage.  This heartiness of this stew was almost intimidating, and I couldn’t finish it off.  We enjoyed our meal with a bottle of Cahors red wine, and finished the meal with a glass of Armagnac to round out our Toulousian culinary experience.  Armagnac, which is a French brandy similar to Cognac, is made exclusively in this area.

Toulouse, beautiful charming ville rose of southwest France- come discover this treasure on bicycle and enjoy the delicious flavors of the region.

Random trivia:  Legend has it that France’s King Henry IV (1553 – 1610) had Armagnac and garlic placed on his lips by his grandfather on the day he was born. He is said to “have drawn wisdom and strength for his whole life” from that experience.