Paris, je t’aime!

Paris, wonderful city of lights, my favorite city in the whole world.  Some memorable photos from my recent trip….

Coffee break at Les Deux Magots

Place de Concorde from the Jardin de Tuileries

White asparagus at the Bastille farmer's market

Notre Dame on a cloudy day

Seine river

Notre Dame at dusk

Escargots at Ma Bourgogne

Place de Vosges

Bateau on the Seine river

Evening stroll along the Seine river

Deserted streets of Paris at 3am

Clock at Musée d'Orsay

At the foot of the Tour Eiffel at 2am

Oh Paris, my beautiful city, my city of love, you fill me with joy and happiness.  Je t’aime!!!

xoxo

Patrick Roger – Paris

Paris, France.  City of lights, city of romance, city of croissants, cheese, baguettes, wine and all things nice.  And of course, city of chocolates.  With a city full of chocolateries, how does one go about choosing his or her favorite?  La Maison du Chocolat will never steer you wrong, and Pierre Hermé will please you with both chocolates and macaroons.  Michel Cluizel is fortunately available in the US, and Christian Constant‘s hot chocolates will make you faint with delight.  I fell in love with Patrick Roger’s beautiful chocolaterie in St. Germain des Près on my recent trip to Paris.  Patrick Roger, who won the title of Best French Artisan in 2000, showcases his artistry and creativity in this modern St. Germain store.

Although he is famous for his delicate chocolates, he is also known for his amazing store window displays.  Think back to that scene in ‘Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory’ where the oompa loompas frolick about the flowery marshmallow meadows, and ornate gingerbread houses line the everflowing milk chocolate river.  Patrick Roger creates a similar wacky display in his store using  chocolate and confectionaries, only the oompa loompas have become baseball sized vegetable-themed creatures standing in front of a 4 foot tall chocolate house with an intricate roof made of thousands of round chocolate tiles.   A chocolate rooster stands atop the tall steeple, looking down at the chocolate nibs road below.  Foot ball sized cacao nuts made entirely of chocolate decorate a corner of the showcase, and other fun and colorful edible adornments liven up the space to create a culinary Grimm’s fairy tale fantasy world.

Except for the gasps and sighs that will inevitably flow out of your mouth, the boutique is a quiet and peaceful space.  The courteous staff will allow you to silently peruse the beautiful store as you lose track of time in this chocolate dimension.  On one wall you can find shelves of prepackaged truffles, noisettes (chocolate and caramel covered hazelnuts) and amandes (chocolate dusted almonds).  On the back wall there are infinite stacks of flat rectangular chocolate bars, each labelled with the name of the country from which the cacao beans were harvested from, and the cacao percentage number.  I was surprised to find the amazing variety of chocolate bars-  Peru, Venezuela, Papua New Guinea, Ecuador, Trinidad and Sao Tomé just to name a few. 

In the center island are rows of golden tin trays filled with Roger’s breathtaking creations that the staff with delicately collect for you.  He is a master of blending exotic flavors and spices with his chocolates, finding that perfect balance between the 2 such that one does not overwhelm the other.  I tried the lemon basil, the passion fruit, the ginger, and the sesame flavored chocolate squares, and they were all sublime.

Other flavors that I would love to try on my next visit to Patrick Roger are the jasmine flower, Szechuan peppercorns and anise.  They also sell a variety of chocolate assortments that are pre-packaged in their beautiful signature turquoise green boxes.  The sight of Tiffany’s robin’s egg blue colored boxes used to make my heart flutter.  Now it’s Patrick Roger’s mesmerizing sea green packaging that gets me panting with joy.

Chocolaterie Patrick Roger

108 boulevard Saint Germain, 75006 Paris

http://www.patrickroger.com/

Random chocolate quotes:

‘Nine out of ten people like chocolate.  The tenth person always lies…’                  –John Q. Tullius

‘If one swallows a cup of chocolate only three hours after a copious lunch, everything will be perfectly digested and there will still be room for dinner. ‘
–Brillat-Savarin (famed French gastronomer)

‘Las cosas claras y el chocolate espeso.  (Ideas should be clear and chocolate thick.) ‘
–Spanish proverb

‘I have this theory that chocolate slows down the aging process.  It may not be true, but do I dare take the chance?’   — Anonymous

‘Man cannot live on chocolate alone, but woman sure can’   –Author unknown

‘If you get melted chocolate all over your hands, you’re eating it too slowly’   –Author unknown

‘Researchers have discovered that chocolate produces some of the same reactions in the brain as marijuana.  The researchers also discovered other similarities between the two but can’t remember what they are ‘   — Matt Lauer

The Hidden Kitchen – Paris

Through a twist of fate and good luck, my last dinner in Paris turned out to be an exclusive and memorable experience.  The Hidden Kitchen is a secret underground supper club held on weekends in a lovely apartment in the posh 1st arrondissement.  The gracious hosts who live in the apartment are a lovely young American couple who moved from Seattle to Paris a few years ago.  Braden Perkins, the chef, and his girlfriend Laura Adrian cook a 7 course meal with wine pairings for 16 guests who are lucky enough not only to know about this club, but also to make it onto the list.  Although my friend e-mailed a dinner request several weeks before our Paris trip, it was only the day before that we got confirmation that we were in.

I remember the moment we received the confirmation.  I told my friend excitedly “Yes yes!  Hurry and call them back before we lose our spot!”  It was too good to be true- the trouble of securing reservations at this special dinner in itself heightens the whole experience.  Then we got information on the secret location.  I will only tell you that it’s in a lovely part of Paris, oh about a 10 minute walk from the Louvre.  As we entered the building that evening and took the tiny elevator up to the designated floor, I remember feeling a bit nervous.  What is the meal going to be like?  What are the other guests going to be like?  Are we dressed appropriately?  The hallway was quiet and we didn’t hear a sound.  Were we even in the right place?  We knocked on the door, and the moment those large doors swung open, we were greeted by the sounds of laughter and rolling conversation, the smell of food wafting from the kitchen, a friendly handshake from Laura, and a glass of Gratien and Meyer mimosa.

The apartment was beautiful.  Pristine wooden floors, crown moldings, ceiling to floor window drapes framing the beautiful view of the city, a marble fireplace, a perfectly set long table for 16 under a shimmering chandelier, and warm glowing candlelight everywhere.  The icing on the cake was their adorable Boston terrier Tattie who shared his love with every guest.

The guests were mostly American, and we also had a fun group of 4 Aussies and Kiwis.  Amazingly no French, even though we were in the middle of Paris.  It was strange to be in this lovely Parisian apartment speaking only English and talking about American culture and news.

As we settled into our seats and perused the neatly presented dinner menu, Braden gave us a warm welcome and explained the amuse bouche- pickled onions and queso fresco on a squid ink cracker.  Braden came out before each course to introduce and describe the dish that he prepared in the tiny kitchen.

The first course was a fava bean ravioli with sweet peas in a green garlic spring onion sauce, garnished with dehydrated carrots, parsley and toasted crostini.  A nourishing ravioli dish with nice added crisp textures from the carrots and crostini.  This was paired with a Sancerre 2005 from Domaine de L’Estang Ligers, a light white that left a lingering sweetness on my tongue.

The second course was a poached egg served with a chilled white asparagus marinated in white truffle oil and lemon, with a parmigiano mornay sauce and garnished with a hat of marinated leeks.  Contrary to its hearty appearance, this dish was a bit on the bland side and could have used a little more acidity.  Although the asparagus was a tad undercooked, it was nice to be eating fresh seasonal foods.  This was paired with a beautiful 2007 Chateau La Bertrande Bordeaux which was my one of my favorite wines of the evening.  It had a fine interplay of dry and sweet flavors.

The third course was seared Atlantic salmon seasoned with salt and white pepper in a rhubarb bay leaf sauce, served with kohlrabi lime and nigella seed coleslaw, and a flaxseed cracker.  The salmon was perfectly cooked and went beautifully with the delicate rhubarb sauce.  It was paired with a 2005 Chateau de L’Aulée from Touraine Azay Le Rideau of the Loire valley, which had a sweet caramel flavor.

The next course was a pan fried mackerel battered in buckwheat flour, served with chive feta, a poppyseed cracker, cucumbers and a red pepper sauce.  The crispy texture and light flavor of the cucumber complemented the superb mackerel that was incredibly fresh and delicious.  I wasn’t a fan of the red pepper sauce which tasted like Chinese sweet and sour sauce.  The dish was paired with an Aquilon 2007 Grenache-Syrah blend from Roussillon, which is close to the Spanish border.  I loved this wine which was deep and rich, and not too sweet for a rosé.

The palate cleanser was a playful take on an American classic.  Called ‘The Derby’, it was a bourbon jello with lime sorbet and mint garnish.  The jello had a nice strong bourbon kick and the lime sorbet was refreshing.  This would be perfect for a balmy summer evening.  A simple, lovely and revitalizing culinary delight.

The meat dish was a lemon zest and garlic stuffed pork roulade with a brown sugar crust.  It was served with white bean, fennel and frisée salad on a bed of basil pesto, an asparagus spear, a deep fried artichoke heart and lemon aioli dot.  Although I initially felt like the dish was too busy with so many different flavors and components, it all worked well and I really enjoyed it.  The overall balance of flavors was refreshing, although the meat was on the dry side.  It was paired with a Côtes du Rhone 2006 from Domaine La Millière.

I loved the beautiful and unique presentation of the beet salad.  Wild arugula speared through a tart cherry looked like a miniature beet, though the real beet in this dish was a rectangular piece of tender roasted beet flavored with balsamic vinegar and a dollop of goat cheese on tart cherry purée.  A simple but well thought-out dish with strong bold flavors.  This was paired with a Mas Du Notaire 2007 Costieres de Nimes from Rhone Valley which was tart and still young.

For dessert we had rhubarb mint sorbet with shortbread cake and macerated strawberries.  The strawberries were sweet and delicious and the sorbet was light and refreshing.  The shortbread cake was a bit of a disappointment- it was rock hard, unbreakable and inedible.

The petits fours prepared by Laura from the top going clockwise: honey salted peanut caramel, rice krispy treat, blueberry pâte de fruit and tonka bean dark chocolate truffle.  I didn’t taste any since I’m not a petits fours type of person, but everybody else seemed to enjoy them.

It’s truly amazing that Chef Braden whipped out a beautiful 7 course meal for 16 people all by himself from a tiny closet sized kitchen, all the while maintaining a perfect flow of service and also managing to come out to chat with everybody before presenting each dish.  Laura was a perfect and professional hostess, never ceasing to smile and always staying cool and calm as she effortlessly functioned as sommelier and server to a table of 16.  Even though we were all tourists in this beautiful city of lights, for those few magical hours that night it felt like we were hanging out with close friends back home.  It’s a special feeling to be welcomed into somebody’s home, to be invited into their sacred space as guests of honor, to be fed with food cooked from the heart and straight from the oven, and to be able to say goodbye to new friends with a warm hug and a ‘let’s keep in touch!’ at the end of the night.  This exclusive experience was worth every 80 Euros, and I would do it again in a heartbeat.

The Hidden Kitchen

Random trivia:  Did you know that in Islam, the nigella seed is regarded as one of the greatest forms of healing medicine available?   The prophet Muhammad once said that the black seed can heal every disease—except death.

Afaria – Paris

Afaria, a small French bistro tucked away on a tiny street in the 15th arrondissement, is a relative newcomer to the Paris culinary scene.  We became interested in dining at Afaria after reading an alluring review on a travel magazine.  Young and handsome 27 year old chef Julien Duboué worked with fellow Basque Alain Dutournier at Michelin starred Le Carré des Feuillants, then at George V, and Daniel Boulud in New York.  When he decided to open his own place, it wasn’t so easy.  He was turned down by 9 banks before finding funding for the restaurant.  Now it’s become an important landmark for locals and a go-to place for foodie tourists in the know.

Duboué’s food combines classic French techniques with bold Basque flavors, served in a casual and friendly environment.  Simple wooden chairs and tables fill the small dining room, flanked by distressed mirrors enscribed with an extensive wine list.  The space is quaint, unpretentious and relaxing- the friendly staff made us feel immediately at home. They have French and English menus, and most of the staff spoke English, although we were the only non-locals that evening.  There was an elderly gentleman celebrating his birthday that night with about 10 friends and family.  A few couples were holding hands and looking longingly into each other’s eyes.  Next to us was a party of 8 young beautiful women, giggling and toasting to a girl’s night out.  After-work Parisians were sitting around the tall communal table by the entrance, nibbling on tapas and laughing out their hard day’s work over glasses of wine.  This is a warm place of gathering, where people from all walks of life come together to enjoy life, drinks and good food.

We started with Boudin noir aux pommes en croûte de moutarde, black pudding with apples in a mustard crust.  For those of you who don’t know, black pudding is made from pig’s blood which gives it a distinct savory depth with an irony finish.  The pudding was light and fluffy in consistency, and due to the thick layer of rich apple flavor it didn’t taste gamey at all.  It was lovely with the tart acidic salad greens.

We really wanted to get the magret de canard rôti grilled duck fillet over a bed of grapevines, which is one of the house specialties, but a large party of 8 next to our table snagged the last of it.  For what it’s worth, it looked and smelled amazing!

Couteaux et moules cuisinés a la basque, Basque style shellfish of mussels and razor clams was delicious.  This dish truly represents rustic Basque cuisine- hearty tomato broth with bold chorizo flavors, earthy spices, crisp flavors of fresh parsley and herbs, and an abundance of garlic, onions and smokey dried red peppers.  The fresh razor clams had a beautiful plump texture, and the sauce was addictive.  We kept ordering more bread to soak up the wonderful juices.  It also went wonderfully with our carafe of white sangria which had ginger, lemon and pineapple.

Mignon de porc ibaiona grillé, grilled pork fillet with spring vegetables in a basil sauce, with pommes gaufrettes homemade chips. The pork was moist and tender, and the basil sauce was an incredibly refreshing complement to the fresh and sweet vegetables and mozzarella cubes.  It went well with the light and dry Elian Da Ros 2007 Côtes-du-marmandais red wine from Cocumont France.

The escabèche of chicken Landaise with artichokes and summer truffles was a surprise, as we ordered it thinking it was a hot dish.  It felt a bit strange to eat a cold chicken dish, and the chicken was a bit on the dry side.  The summer black truffle aroma was disappointingly absent, and the dish lacked depth and flavor.

Afaria came back strong with a fascinating and heavenly dessert dish- the Baked Alaska with cognac flambée.  The torched cognac was poured onto the dessert at the table, making for an exciting and mesmerizing experience.  Hidden under the flambéed white meringue layer was a wonderfully rich vanilla bean ice cream.  By the time we reached the bottom crust layer, it was nicely soaked in cognac and had an intoxicating rich flavor.  This was one of my favorite desserts on this Europe trip.

We followed the dessert with shots of raspberry-spiked Armagnac, a recipe said to have come from the chef’s Basque grandmother.  A most ideal digestif to end the meal with.  By the time we finished dinner at around 1 am the restaurant had closed and we were the last customers there.  The friendly staff and Chef Julien invited us over to the bar area to share a lovely bottle of 1995 vintage Billecart-Salmon champagne with them.  It’s always such an extraordinary and memorable experience to get to know the people who create the food- especially over drinks and laughs (and some dancing!).

If you get tired of stuffy and expensive restaurants while visiting Paris, go to Afaria to relax and kick back.  You can leave your worries at the door and get pampered with comfort food and friendly service.

Afaria

15 Rue Desnouettes, 15th Arr.

Paris, France

33-1-48-56-15-36

Closed Sunday and lunchtime Mondays

Random trivia:   Did you know that the Basque language is unrelated structurally or historically to any language now spoken anywhere on the planet, or to any known to have ever existed?

Le Meurice-Paris

For the ultimate luxurious and grand Parisian experience, we had lunch at the famous 3 Michelin star Le Meurice restaurant of Le Meurice Hotel in the chic and beautiful 1st arrondissement.  In the heart of Paris across from the Tuileries Gardens, the upscale hotel that was loved by Salvador Dali is tastefully designed by Philippe Starck in tribute to Dali’s art and life.  The entrance, lobby, Restaurant Le Dali and Bar 228 are all an interesting mix of classic Starck flambouyance and elegance with furniture and artwork reminiscent of Dali’s inspirational vision.

My favorite item was the miroir givré, or frosted mirror, which is a large stainless steel frame with a refrigeration system that stands at the entrance of the hotel.  You can write messages, draw pictures and leave your handprint on this cold frosted surface.  Such a wonderful and fun innovation!

The historical Le Meurice hotel has been a landmark since 1835, and the grand dining room of Le Meurice restaurant has kept the same interior since it opened in 1907 except for the curtains and chandeliers that have been designed by Starck.  The ornate ceiling frescos and elaborate gold trimmed rococo paintings and mirrors on the marbled walls are the same as what the early 20th century bourgeois looked at as they dined in the same room many years ago.  One step into this handsome and luxurious dining room, and you are instantly transported into a different but comfortable space of old world aristocracy.  With perfectly ironed white tablecloths, Hermés leather bag stools, plush silk sofas and well crafted wooden dining chairs, large elegantly draped windows that look out onto the Jardin, elaborate handmade tiled floors, impeccably polished silverware, and flawless fresh dark red roses on each table, the dining experience itself is worthy of more than 3 stars.  The uniformed dining staff are of elite class, executing perfect flow of service down to the millisecond and never allowing so much as a crumb to fall on your lap.

The handsome Yannick Alléno heads the kitchens of this 3 star establishment.  He makes what he calls ‘Parisian cuisine’, incorporating modern global flavors and techniques with seasonal French products.  We had the wonderful privilege of enjoying the Printemps spring menu at Le Meurice.

Delicious glasses of Billecart Salmon champagne started our meal with 2 canapés- the mackerel, carrot and dijon mustard canapé was light, tart, not fishy at all.  The goat cheese and tomato with chopped black langoustine coral was more creamy and deep flavored.

A refreshing and light amuse of basil and leeks gelée with salmon roe came in a beautiful dainty gold tin.  A nice balance of natural leek sweetness and salmon roe saltiness.

They also served us another complimentary dish of celeriac purée with cubes of carrot and beef, legume gelée, deep fried ravioli, vinegar and mustard seeds. It was nice to get different textures from the crispy ravioli, smooth gelée and tender beef cubes.  The entire dish was nicely tart and acidic.

The first appetizer dish was Langoustines on a melba toast with sliced raw Paris mushrooms and seasoned artichokes. Tender and sweet raw langoustine slices on a crispy thin melba toast, topped with thinly sliced raw mushrooms with a salmon roe in the center, drizzled with aromatic olive oil and citrus juice.  Seasoned thinly sliced artichokes with sautéed oyster and shimeji mushrooms were side accompaniments.  A  dainty feminine dish with wonderfully sweet langoustines.

Langoustines

Crabmeat in a canneloni of squid with pink grapefruit and seaweed chutney, and almond ice cream.  The vibrant colors and shapes made this beautifully plated spring dish come alive.  The slightly slippery texture of the thinly sliced squid canneloni was really wonderful, and the overall balance of flavors was delicate and refined.

Squid and crab

Blue Lobster with Madras Curry, pincers served in small raviolis with a spicy broth. The lobster meat was fresh and tender, and the madras curry was deep and aromatic, though the pincer ravioli dish (not photographed) was way too salty.

Blue lobster curry

Sliced breast of pigeon with duck foie gras and hazelnuts, with sautéed spring vegetables with jus.  Wow, this was an amazing and delicious dish, and one of my favorites on this Europe trip.  The pigeon was fresh and perfectly cooked medium, so tender and juicy, with very little gameyness.  Although I’m not a fan of nuts, I understood why the chopped hazelnuts were essential to this dish.  Its earthy flavors really rounded out the robust flavors of the pigeon and foie gras.  A spectacular dish from start to finish, and the bright colors of the grilled spring vegetables (radish, turnip, asparagus, baby artichokes) really stood out.

Pigeon breast

It came with an extra dish of roasted pigeon leg with spring vegetables and quail egg in pigeon jus, and lardo colonata on melba toast.  The pigeon leg was a bit more gamey, though the Italian lardo toast was crisp and delicate in texture and appearance, yet full-bodied in flavor.

The larded fillet of beef marinated with French seaweed jam, stuffed polenta with soft fresh cream and raw vegetable shavings.  This was cut, plated, garnished and served tableside like an orchestrated symphony by a team of 3 experienced and efficient servers.  It was amazing to see them working in perfect harmony to produce this beautiful and delicious plate.  The beef was cooked to perfection, and extremely juicy, tender and flavorful.

Fillet of beef

For dessert we ordered the soft chocolate cream with hazelnut praline, crunchy mousse with frozen lemon dish.  The plating was superb, and the presentation was breathtaking.  A refined and noble dessert dish with gold leaf accents and multiple layers of textures and flavors.

Chocolate cake

The last 2 dessert plates were complimentary from the restaurant.  It was a celebration of and tribute to raspberries!  I love raspberries and loved these delicate desserts even more.  The first was an apple ice cream with raspberry coulis, accompanied by a marshmallow with lemon perfume and raspberry powder.  The deep crimson reds were sexy and intoxicating, and the flavors were refined and perfectly tart.

From the top going clockwise: donut with raspberry filling, violette macaroon with whole raspberries, slice of green apple and vanilla bean custard, raspberry financier with a cube of beet root, lemon zest and lemon mousse, and finally a sable with salt perfume, raspberry mousse and green apple jelly heart.  All of these desserts were amazing, each presenting a different yet equally delicious interpretation of the raspberry.  A true feast for the eyes, and an absolute joy for the palate.

Tea time at Le Meurice Hotel

Le Meurice…the ultimate Paris experience.  One step into this hotel and you will be instantly whisked away into a special eclectic world of modern Starck fantasy and majestic French aristocracy.  Dine in the elegant Le Meurice restaurant and let the attentive staff treat you like royalty as time and the outside world come to a silent halt. Close your eyes and take a deep relaxing breath, then fully embrace the experience of being at Alléno’s mercy as you take in his cuisine with all of your open senses.  Walk around the hotel and interact with the playful Dali-inspired furniture and artwork.  Leave your handprint on the frosted mirror as you bid farewell to this magical and exclusive world.  Once you step outside of this world, you will be dropped back into the reality of honking taxis, scurrying tourists and pooping pet dogs.  If it’s too much for you to handle, run quickly across the street into the Jardin de Tuileries to enter back into a tranquil and serene dream.  Repeat as necessary.

http://www.meuricehotel.com/restaurants_bars/index.html

Random trivia: Did you know that pigeons are monogamous?

Bistro Paul Bert- Paris

Bistro Paul Bert

For the ultimate Parisian bistro experience with classic French cooking, Le Bistro Paul Bert in the 11th arrondissement, not far from Bastille, is the perfect location.  Tucked away in a quiet neighborhood, this bistro is small, quaint and unpretentious.  Bustling with locals and a few scant tourists (that’s us!), I could tell that this was a place of warmth and comfort from the soft yellow glow of lights and the sounds of laughter and clinking wine glasses emanating from the small storefront as I approached it on the dark street.

Chalkboard menu

The menu is written on a medium-sized chalkboard that is passed around from table to table.  The formule menu for 34 Euros includes an appetizer, entrée and dessert.  Even though it was still only 8:30pm on a Wednesday night, the place was packed and they had already run out of many entrées.  My poor friends were crushed when our waitress initially told them that she would save the last langoustine plate for them, only to return a few minutes later crossing her arms in a big X with the dreaded “c’est fini!”

Asperges blanches au parmesan de vache rouge: White asparagus with parmesan cheese.  A very simple dish of steamed white asparagus with salt, pepper, olive oil and shaved parmesan cheese.  Mild and delicate in taste, the white asparagus was meaty and thick.  Since it was the tail end of asparagus season, I could sense a hint of bitter finish in the vegetable, in contrast to the succulent sweetness of those I had during the peak season.  Still, I was happy to be able to enjoy a plateful of these giant stalks- it’s hard to find them in the US.

Assiette de jambon blanc iberico et sa salade: as simple as you can get.  Slices of delicious Iberico ham with a simple baby greens viniagrette salad.  At this bistro, it’s all about simplicity and good quality.

Petit anchois frais en tempura: deep fried tempura-style anchovies.  That’s all there is to it, just plain simple battered and fried anchovies with lemon, but oh it was incredibly good.  The fish were so fresh, it made me wonder if they were still alive when they were dropped into the pot of bubbling oil.  Crisp and light, yet moist, tender and succulent on the inside, this was my favorite appetizer of the evening.

They gave us these purée maison mashed potatoes to accompany our entrées, and I couldn’t get over how adorable the small cast iron pot was. Very functional too, as it kept the potatoes warm throughout our meal.

Ris de veau, poêlée de rattes et carottes du jardin: Pan fried veal sweetbreads with garden fresh ratte potatoes and carrots.  These sweetbreads were large, moist, rich and luscious.  I’m used to having sweetbread dishes where there are several small segmented pieces of sweetbread that break apart easily, but this dish presented 1 large grand piece of succulent heaven that stood up to the earthy intensity of the morel mushrooms.

Dos de cabillaud rôti à la crème de morilles: roasted cod loin fillet with morel mushroom cream sauce.  The cod was incredibly moist and flavorful, bold enough to complement the beautiful morel mushroom sauce.  Morels were in high season at this time, and it was such a joy to see it incorporated in so many dishes.  I love the intense woodsy aroma and soft juicy consistency of fresh morels; it’s nothing like the dried counterparts.  A wonderful pairing with the bottle of B. Couralt “Les Tabeneaux” red wine that we ordered.

Tête de veau, sauce gribiche et sa cervelle: calf’s head with its brains, served with gribiche sauce which is a mayonnaise based sauce with hard boiled eggs, capers, cornichons, Dijon mustard, parsley and chives.  This is hearty classic French bistro cooking at its absolute best.  It’s the meat and skin around a calf’s head, carefully taken off the skull, wrapped around the tongue and prepared in a bouillon for hours until the gelatinous skin starts to melt and soften.  In the photo you can see the thick slice of tongue in the foreground, and sautéed brains to the right.  Every bite of which ever meat I ate, simply melted in my mouth.  The thick outer layer of the face meat was collagenous heaven that dissolved effortlessly on my tongue into a warm enveloping sensation of full-bodied finesse.  The tart and acidic gribiche sauce was the perfect complement to such an intensely robust and nourishing meal.  Because of the sauce, I was able to finish the plate- otherwise, it may have been too heavy even for an organ meat lover like myself.  This was one of my favorite dishes on this Europe trip.

Ile flottante aux pralines roses: Floating island dessert with pink pralines.  Ile flottante is a light meringue on top of a crème anglaise custard sauce.  I wasn’t too crazy about this dessert, but then again I am not the fairest judge of this dish, as I don’t like nuts, meringue or pralines.  Also, I was still ‘floating’ in tête de veau heaven.  But I do remember the crème anglaise being quite flavorful.

Soufflé au chocolat et au basilic: Chocolate and basil soufflé.  I enjoyed this dish, but my friends reported that the basil kick was a bit too much for them.  The consistency of the soufflé was perfect- warm, fresh out of the oven, airy and light.

Baba au rhum façon savarin: Rum cake made in a Savarin mold.  The Savarin yeast cake is made in a ring mold with a rounded contour, making it look like a large donut.  It’s named after Brillat-Savarin, a famous 18th century gastronome and epicure. Since the dessert came with a bottle of white rum, it made us think that the cake had hardly any rum in it.  We were all expecting a nice moist cake with a hint of rum finish, and dove in with our large spoons.  Within seconds we were coughing, hacking and hyperventilating from the harsh alcohol.  This was not a cake with a hint of rum.  This was a plate of rum with a hint of cake.  Blech.  We watched in awe as a gentleman in his late 60’s sitting at the table next to us generously poured several ounces of extra rum from the bottle onto his baba, and finished the whole plate with not so much as an expression on his face.

Although the desserts flopped, everything else satisfied all of my senses.  If you have a bigger party or a bigger appetite, try the côte de boeuf for two (it looked like it was for four), a huge seared steak with frites which is their specialty.  I had a wonderful and happy experience at this neighborhood bistro, where the atmosphere, people and food were all loving and heartfelt.  I remember looking around and seeing everybody laughing and smiling, enjoying life and living in the moment.  This was classic, hearty bistro cooking done right with the best ingredients to nourish the stomach and soul.

Le Bistro Paul Bert-  18, rue Paul Bert, Paris  France

331-4372-2401

Random trivia: White asparagus is made by ‘etiolation’, which is the deprivation of light.  The stalks are kept away from the light by being buried in soil, so that chlorophyll (which gives the green pigment) cannot be produced.

Poilâne Bakery & Cuisine de Bar

Poilâne bakery in the 6th arr. on 8 rue Cherche-Midi is one of, if not the most famous bakery in Paris.  Still standing in its original location since it opened its doors in 1932, it is adored and frequented by both locals and tourists alike.  Fortunately, the bakery is still in the trusted hands of the Poilâne family, and the tradition of baking their breads with stone ground flour and Guérande sea salt in wood fired ovens carries on to this day.

The moment I stepped inside the charming bright space, I was greeted with the comforting buttery aroma of freshly baked warm bread.  Although they don’t have a large selection of breads and pastries, I can tell that each piece is made with great care and finesse.  Their croissants and rustic apple tarts were flaky, rich and delicious.

Poilâne’s signature bread is the large 2 kg round sourdough loaf with the big ‘P’ inscription.  They can be ordered with custom made designs and messages, which make for wonderful gifts.

The tiny and quaint Poilâne store also sells ‘Punitions’ (small butter cookies), ceramic bowls, linen bags, bread and butter knives, wicker baskets, jams and the famous Poilâne cook book.  The whole experience will make you hungry, and fortunately you can go right next door to La Cuisine de Bar for breakfast or lunch.

Cuisine de Bar is a small casual minimalist café that serves a variety of savory tartines (open-faced sandwiches) on the famous sourdough Poilâne miche.  Although you can order individual tartines, the best deal is the Formule for 14 Euros: salade de saison, tartine au choix, boisson au choix and café.

The ‘seasonal salad’ was a plain iceberg lettuce salad with lentils and a tangy mustard grain vinaigrette that was a bit too strong for my liking.  I chose a glass of Chardonnay for my drink of choice, which was lovely with my sardine sandwich.    The tartine sardines: toasted bread, sardines, butter, aged wine vinegar and chives.  Pleasantly tart, nicely salted and simply delicious.

The tartine crottin: toasted bread, provençale tomato purée, goat cheese and coppa ham.  A classic, unpretentious and delectable combination.

The tartine for’bon: toasted bread, whole ripe Saint-Marcellin cheese, Bayonne ham, marjoram and olive oil, perfectly grilled under the broiler (extra 3 Euro charge).  This was my favorite tartine, a refined take on the classic grilled ham and cheese with the best ingredients.

Other tartines that sounded delicious: tomato and mozzarella, shrimp and avocado, chicken club with garlic aioli and capers, and foie gras. Sel gris, herbes de provence and caraway seeds were set on each table for sprinkling on the tartines, but there really was no need for them.  We had a nice tangy tarte citron; they also had apple and chocolate tarts that day.  The coffee came with a very cute Poilâne butter cookie spoon that they sell in the bakery.  A nice after-meal experience of sipping, dipping and eating.

The next time you are in Paris,  visit Poilâne and Cuisine de Bar; make sure you get to the café before 3pm.  Afterwards, take a nice stroll to the Bon Marché and La Grande Epicerie just around the corner for the ultimate shopping experience.  The moment I set foot inside La Grand Epicerie, I almost fainted with excitement.  I was in awe…and then I was in love.  There are endless aisles of select gourmet olive oils, sea salts, foie gras, charcuterie and truffles, and almost too many display cases of fresh fish, meats and prepared foods that can either be eaten in the store or taken home.  It’s the type of place I imagine my version of heaven to be like.  I bought cepes mushroom sea salt, white truffle sea salt, raz el hanout, vanilla powder and a beautiful bottle of wild carrot olive oil that I am very excited to use.

Poilâne bakery

Rue du Cherche-Midi
75006 Paris, France
01 45 48 42 59

La Grande Epicerie de Paris

38 Rue de Sèvres
75007 Paris, France
01 44 39 80 00

Random trivia:   Ounce for ounce, sardines provide more calcium and phosphorus than milk, more protein than steak, more potassium than bananas, more iron than cooked spinach, and have the highest amount of EPA of any fish.

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon- Paris

In the heart of trendy Saint Germain des Prés on the Left Bank in Paris stands the infamous L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon restaurant.  What better way to kick start my recent trip to Europe than to pay a visit to one of the world’s most famous chef’s establishments?  Joël Robuchon has almost become a household name, as he continues to build his global empire of Michelin starred restaurants.

L’Atelier, unlike the more formal La Table, offers casual small plate dining with a sushi bar-like square counter from where diners can sit back and enjoy personalized interactive service with the sommelier and servers, and the theatrical excitement of the large open-air kitchen.  The modern and sexy interior of the restaurant is dimly lit with cherry red accents, and decorated with vivid displays of sliced, rolled and curled vegetables and fruits in geometric containers.

Our amuse bouche was a refreshing gazpacho with mustard ice cream.  An invigorating tart cocktail of fresh vegetables with a powerful jolt of creamy mustard sensation.  This dish slapped my taste buds and salivary glands wide awake and prepared me for the sensational meal to come.

Les Anchois frais marinés aux poivrons rouges grillés– a perfectly vertical tower of marinated anchovies with grilled red peppers.  The perfect saltiness and acidity of the vinegar marinated anchovies, paired with the deep sweetness of the grilled peppers was the perfect way to start the meal.

L’ouef, cocotte et sa crème légère de morilles- egg cocotte with a morel mushroom cream sauce.  This is one of Robuchon’s signature dishes, and for good reason.  This is a whole egg, slow cooked at a low temperature to where the whites of the egg just barely set and the yellow yolk is runny and smooth.  It was elegantly served in a martini glass with foamed morel mushroom cream sauce and a whole plump earthy morel mushroom on top.  A decadent, rich and flavorful masterpiece that combines perfect cooking techniques with culinary innovation.

Le Bœuf en plat de côte effiloché, salade de haricots verts relevée à l’échalote et chips d’ail– shredded beef short rib with french green bean salad with shallots, garlic chips and arugula.  A wonderful combination of textures between the crispy garlic chips, firm haricot verts, tender beef and fresh greens.  A surprisingly light dish that was a delight to eat.

L’Os a Moelle relevé d’une pointe de moutarde à notre façon– a grilled slice of toasted rustic bread, generously slathered with beef bone marrow mixed with Orléans mustard ‘our way’, perfectly balanced on a beef bone pedestal and garnished with parsley, arugula and baby beet greens. The marrow was perfectly rich and plenteous, with the slight peppery contrast of the greens and the fleur de sel seasoning taming the fattiness just enough so it wasn’t too heavy.  This dish, my favorite of the evening, was so mindblowingly delicious that we ordered another.

Le Cochon de Lait en côtelletes à la marjolaine, jeunes oignons au jus– Suckling pork cutlets with marjoram and young onion jus.  The small pieces of pork cutlet were perfectly tender and juicy, and the marjoram added a deep earthy aroma.  The dish came with Robuchon’s signature potato purée, extremely rich in butter and milk, and so creamy and smooth that it melts immediately on your tongue.

Les spaghettis à notre façon- spaghetti ‘our way’, with a simple tomato, basil and olive sauce.  Although this dish was good by any other standards, it was the least memorable plate of the evening.  I was hoping for something extraordinary, given the big name behind this establishment, but I was immediately unimpressed and bored after the first bite.  This is around the time that I ordered more bone marrow.

Les Langoustines en papillotes croustillantes au basilic– crispy langoustine fritters with basil pesto.  Deep fried to a perfect light and crispy crunch, these moist and delicate langoustines balanced out our meat-dominant menu.

L’agneau de lait en côtelettes à la fleur de thym- milk-fed spring lamb cutlets with fresh thyme, again with Robuchon’s signature potatoes.  These young lamb cutlets were surprisingly delicate and light, unlike the more familiar gamey and mature version.

Le foie de veau aux rouelles d’oignon croustillantes et son jus acidulé- veal liver with deep fried crispy onion rings in a tart jus.   This was my second favorite dish of the evening, especially since I am a big lover of organ meats.  Juicy, tender and intensely flavorful, the foie’s innate robustness was balanced out with the acidity of the vinegar jus and crispy sweet onions.  This dish paired beautifully with our bottle of 2003 Savigny-les-Beaune Les Marconnets that the sommelier carefully chose for us.

Le Bœuf la noix d’entrecôte à la plancha et ses pommes de terres grenailles confites- grilled beef ribeye with baby potatoes.  This was one of the most tender and sensational cuts of steak I have ever had, overflowing with succulent meat juices and exquisite fatty flavor.  It was grilled a la plancha to a perfect medium rare, most fitting to show off the incredibly high quality of the meat.

Although we were quite full from our delicious feast, we could not resist ordering a full dessert  spread.  We were on a roll, the night was still young, and good Lord we were at Robuchon in Paris!

Le Chocolat Tendance, créme onctueuse au chocolat Araguani, sorbet cacao au biscuit Oréo- creamy Araguani chocolate cream, bitter chocolate sorbet with Oreo cookie crumbs.  A beautifully decorated piece of art very fitting with the general theme and decor of the modern restaurant, with rich chocolate sweetness.

Le Pamplemousse glacé et confit en gelée rose, chantilly légère au litchi- grapefruit confit with rose gelée and light lychee cream.  A delightfully refreshing cold dessert with subtle tart sweetness and a spring floral aroma.

La Chartreuse en soufflé chaud avec une crème glacée à la pistache- warm chartreuse yellow soufflé with pistachio ice cream.  A wonderful interplay of cold ice cream slowly melting like lava and soaking its nutty flavors into the depths of soft warm soufflé heaven.

La fraise gariguette et son sorbet citron-basilic, meringues crispy- glazed Gariguette strawberries with yuzu basil sorbet.  A mix of tart and sweet, light and rich, this was a delightful way to end the extraordinary meal.

I entered the doors of L’Atelier with high expectations, and I left with a big smile and a full belly.    From the impeccable service to the seductive decor, the succulent cuts of tender meats to the delightful desserts, it was a perfect Parisian dream come true.

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Paris

5 Rue de Montalembert
75007 Paris, France
01 42 22 56 56

Random trivia:  The ostrich egg, with an average weight of 3.3 pounds, is not only the largest egg but also the largest living single cell (the yolk).