Eva restaurant

When Hatfield’s closed down at its Beverly Boulevard location, I almost felt a little sorry for the poor soul who would try to open up a new restaurant in that same space.  It’s never easy to be the following act, especially after such a well known and loved establishment like Hatfield’s.  When I heard that Chef Mark Gold, the established chef who previously headed Cafe Patina and worked as executive sous alongside Michael Cimarusti at the Water Grill, was moving in, I still nervously clenched my fists at his upcoming project.  A few months ago he opened Eva restaurant there, named after his grandmother who instilled in him a love and curiousity of cooking at a young age.  I usually steer clear of newly opened restaurants for at least 3 months, but after reading positive reviews from established LA critics, I decided that it was time to give it a try.

As I opened the familiar door to the restaurant, I was surprised to be greeted by Mark Gold himself, smiling and patting me on the back like an old friend.  He was one of the most friendliest chefs that I’ve ever met, and I found his radiant enthusiasm for life very endearing.  He was beaming with pride as he told us about some of the dishes on the menu that evening.  We also talked extensively about his culinary adventures through Tokyo before he personally showed us to our table.  I found out that he has a weakness for Maisen tonkatsu, which I also share.

The decor was the same as when it was Hatfield’s- simple, elegant and contemporary with an indoor dining room that faces the semi-open kitchen, and an outdoor patio that wraps around the front half of the building.  I loved the hip modern staff uniforms made by SussDesign, which not only looked comfortable, but also looked like an ad for Armani Exchange.  The young friendly staff looked especially ravishing in their white t-shirts, sky grey knit vests and figure flattering pinstriped grey trousers.  I would gladly work for any company that has this as their uniform.

We started our meal with the peeky toe crab with yuzu gelée, radish and parsley.  The tender morsels of crab meat were paired perfectly with the crunchy textures of the cucumber slivers, radish kick and refreshing acidity of the citrus dressing.  This light and delicate appetizer was a premonition of a fantastic and memorable dinner.

Foie gras terrine with apple marmalade, sesame and brioche was my favorite dish of the evening.  I’ve had many excellent foie gras dishes in my life, but this is now in my top 3.  The generous block of tender foie gras melted like butter as I effortlessly cut through it with my knife.  I was simply amazed at how well it paired with the aromatic apple foam and the delicious apple marmalade.  This was the first time that I had a foie-apple pairing, but it blew me away.  I still think about this dish a lot; in fact, I have been obsessing about it and even told one of my chef friends about it.  I must return to Eva to relive that monumental moment when I first tasted this incredible dish that turned my foie gras world upside down.

Hamachi with fennel cubes, citrus foam and grapefruit wedges was another tart and refreshing seafood appetizer.  This also had a cucumber and radish garnish which added a crisp texture and uplifting flavor to the dish.

Pumpkin ravioli with smoked nuts and finely grated cheese was a comforting bowl of winter wonders.  Both the sauce and ravioli filling were creamy and rich, and the crunchiness of the nuts provided a pleasing contrast of textures.

Nancy’s scallops with bomba rice, crispy chorizo and brussel sprouts came highly recommended by our server.  The plump meaty scallops were seared to perfection, perched tall and proud on a bed of bomba rice risotto as they were fanned by the strikingly beautiful green leaves of their brussels sprout concubines.  Little did they know that the quiet nibbles of chorizo were secretly plotting a coup d’état.  Once inside my mouth, the chorizos exploded with vigor and savor to overtake my taste buds in a gratifying and honorable revolution.

‘Linguini and clams’ made with udon noodles, garlic, bacon and littleneck clams was a sensation.  I was looking forward to trying this dish, as Chef Mark Gold had told me about these special Inaniwa udon noodles that he discovered on his prior trip to Japan.  It seems like an oxymoron to have light flavor and dense texture (which we call ‘koshi‘ in Japan), but that’s the distinct quality of these types of Japanese noodles.  It was the perfect choice of carbohydrate to pair with the hearty flavors of bacon, sweet onions and clams.  Despite its creaminess, the sauce didn’t seem heavy at all with these noodles, and the freshly chopped parsley also kept the overall flavors fresh and sharp.  This, I could eat every day.

Poached beef with cauliflower, chanterelles and salsa verde was also exquisite.  The thick cut of sous vide beef was tender and moist, and the surface was seared to a savory smoky crisp.  Although the assortment of chanterelle mushrooms, cauliflower, carrots and croutons were a bit dry and frail, the snapping flavors of the salsa verde brought up the energy level of the dish.  By this time we were happily finishing off our fantastic bottle of Domaine du Vieux Lazaret 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, whose smooth and well rounded flavors paired exquisitely with the beef.

Flourless chocolate cake with crème fraiche and walnuts was surprisingly light.  Flourless chocolate cakes tend to be like a slab of concrete, but each bite of Eva’s cake practically turned to liquid in the warmth of my mouth.

Lemon pudding with citrus foam and thyme leaves was another lesson and discovery in sensational flavor combinations.  I tried a bite of just the tangy pudding cake itself, and another with a few thyme leaves, and there was no contest.  There was something about the rustic earthiness of this herb that amplified and polished the citrus flavors.  This dessert inspired me to experiment with herbs and sweets in my kitchen.

Our dinner at Eva was amazing.  I was especially happy that I discovered new remarkable flavor combinations to open up my mind and my palate.  The staff was friendly and smart, and everybody seemed genuinely happy to be a part of the Eva family.  As an added bonus, sous chef Brian Huskey came out to chat with us and he gave me a packet of the Japanese udon noodles to take home.  I plan to honor these delicate Inaniwa udon noodles that came all the way from Akita prefecture, and enjoy them as a simple zaru udon dish.  Thank you Brian!

In the meantime, I hope to return to Eva very soon for their Sunday suppers.  It’s the best deal in LA right now.  Every Sunday from 3pm to 9:30pm, they serve a prix fixe family style dinner for $35 a person which includes food, dessert and wine.  It’s not a typo and it’s not a computer glitch… it’s really $35 a head.  Hurry and make your reservations.

Eva restaurant

7458 Beverly Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90036-2701
(323) 634-0700

Random trivia: When describing the texture of udon noodles, in Japan we often talk about ‘koshi‘, which refers to how chewy or dense the noodles are upon mastication.  Udon noodles are made by combining flour, water and salt, and kneading this dough carefully yet powerfully.  The flour used for udon noodles contains gliadin and glutenin, 2 types of glycoproteins which form into an elastic and cohesive protein called gluten when mixed with water.  By adding salt, these glutens form a stronger mesh that becomes even more dense and chewy, thus forming this texture that we call ‘koshi’.  By adjusting the amount of salt in the mixture, one can also adjust the ‘koshi’ of the final product.

Bukhara- New Delhi, India

The S. Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants list comes out every year, researched and comprised by numerous chefs, restaurateurs, and food critics around the globe.  It shall come as no surprise that El Bulli has consistently held 1st place in 5 previous lists, followed closely by its biggest rival, The Fat Duck.  It’s interesting to browse the annual lists of the past decade and see different culinary trends.  The biggest change that I’ve noticed is an exponential  surge of world class cuisine exploding out of Spain.  An unfortunate drop has come from The French Laundry, which used to grace the top position in 2004 but has plummeted to 12th place in 2009.  An unusual Asian competitor is Bukhara restaurant in New Delhi, which used to be #37 in 2007 and named the Best Restaurant in Asia and Best Indian Restaurant in the World, but has dropped down to #65 on the 2009 list.

During my recent trip to India, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity of trying out this famous restaurant which has seen the likes of Bill Clinton, Tony Blair and Bill Gates.  Bukhara, named after the Silk Road province in Uzbekistan that used to be a bustling center for trade and religion, offers rustic flavors of the northwestern frontier of India.  The menu centers around traditionally prepared seafood and meat roasted in a clay tandoor oven.   Housed inside the cosmopolitan ITC Maurya hotel close to embassy row in New Delhi, this restaurant is always fully booked and thriving with international diners. It’s possibly the most famous restaurant in India, and I was excited to be able to dine there.

Unlike its ‘Best 50 Restaurants List’ rivals like Pierre Gagnaire and Tetsuya, the decor and ambiance at Bukhara is almost shockingly casual and rugged.  Diners sit on small wooden logs and have the option of wearing their signature red and white checkered Bukhara bib.  Copper pots hang on stone walls in this low-ceiling space that seems like a cave.  Here, you have to find the right timing to flag down servers in red and gold vests, who are always scurrying from table to table- they don’t necessarily come to you.

Perhaps the most fascinating feature of Bukhara is the large open kitchen where chefs skillfully heave long skewers of marinated meats into the blazing oven and wrestle with the famous Bukhara Naan, an enormous 3 foot naan that goes for 1350 rupees ($29 US) and can probably feed a whole village.  As if sitting inside this cave-like dining room wearing a bib and eating with your hands wasn’t primitive enough, watching these strong male chefs churn out whole chickens and lamb shanks on kebabs is enough to transform any proper lady into a chest beating ape.  This place is not for vegetarians, and it’s not for those looking for a quick light bite.  It’s hearty masculine fare that’s rough at the edges but satisfying in your belly.

There were many excellent choices on the menu such as tandoori pomfret (whole roasted flatfish) and sikandari raan (marinated leg of spring lamb), but we stuck with the classics.  We started with paneer tikka, roasted Indian cheese marinated with yellow chiles.  The huge chunks of unaged cheese, which had the appearance and texture of freshly made tofu, were delicious.  The slight charring at the edges gave it a distinct charcoal aroma that went beautifully with the light flavor of the paneer.

Seekh kabab, minced lamb kebabs hot off the metal skewers, was my favorite dish of the evening.  Lamb is my favorite red meat, and Bukhara couldn’t have done these tender animals any more justice by creating this memorable and fantastic feast.  The kebabs were intensely seasoned with ginger, green chiles, coriander, royal cumin and saffron, and each bite was dripping in fresh lamb essence.  Although the seasoning was a bit too cumin dominant, I really enjoyed the sharpness of the flavors.

Murgh tandoori, which is classic tandoori chicken,  was a whole chicken marinated in yogurt, malt vinegar, ginger, garlic, lemon juice, chili, turmeric, and garam masala.  We ordered garlic and butter naans to complement our perfectly roasted meats.  There’s something so satisfying about using your bare hands to tear meat apart and stuff it in your mouth.  It’s carnal, primal and most of all, it’s fun.

Bukhara is probably most famous for its dahl, which is so popular that it’s sold in supermarkets all over India as ‘Dal Bukhara’.  Indeed, this bowl of hearty and smoky dahl was the real deal.  Unlike others that I’ve had before, Bukhara’s version was creamy and thick with a subtle sweetness that kept me dipping my naan all night.

In case you were wondering… yes, I did put my Bukhara bib on.  Shameless, perhaps, but practical.  It was the only safe way to protect my clothes, as proper table manners went out the window in this delicious carnal feast.  It was a peaceful and satisfying moment to finish the last scrumptious morsel of tandoori chicken off the bone, lick my fingers, stretch out my limbs, shake my mane and stick my dirty fingers into the warm finger bowl.  Ahhhh….

My dinner feast at Bukhara in New Delhi was filling and satisfying.  It was some of the best Indian food that I have ever had, but I am only saying that because I haven’t had enough good Indian food to compare it with.  Although I was happy with my meal, I question whether it’s worthy of being on the 50 Best Restaurants list.  It certainly had the price tag of a Best Restaurant contender though.  Talk about emptying your wallets- the paneer tikka was 1475 rupees ($32 US) and the small bowl of dahl was 550 Rs ($12 US). It may not seem that expensive compared to $100 steaks with black truffle sauce or 80 Euro foie gras dishes, but we’re talking about New Delhi where food normally goes for a few cents.

I’m anxious to see how Bukhara does in the 2010 list, but more curious to see if they’ll finally start acknowledging more Japanese restaurants on their Top 50.  Tokyo now officially has the most Michelin starred restaurants in the world, surpassing Paris in a big ego blow.  If I don’t start seeing these places on the Pellegrino list, then it will be hard for me to accept the full validity of the list.  I stand by my country!

Bukhara

ITC Maurya Sheraton & Towers Diplomatic Enclave
Sadar Patel Marg
Delhi
India 110021
Tel: 91 11 2611 2233

The Top 50 Restaurants

The S. Pellegrino world’s top 50 restaurants list for 2010 will be announced on April 26th, 2010.

Random trivia:  Did you know that cumin is the second most popular spice in the world, following black pepper in first place?  In ancient times, cumin was thought to keep lovers from straying.  Women gave their men bread baked with cumin to prevent them from wandering.

The Tapas Lounge, Aman Resort- New Delhi, India

The sights and sounds of the chaotic city of New Delhi were new and exciting for me during the first few days of my travel, but after the second week I started to slow down my pace and let everything settle into my overstimulated brain.  The polluted air filled with toxic fumes from the auto-rickshaws aggressively winding through tight spaces on the crowded streets was getting to my lungs, and the constant honking of horns was piercing right through my eardrums into my throbbing brain.  The more time I spent in New Delhi, the more I was confused about how to accept this profoundly different culture which bore no resemblance to my more structured American and Japanese upbringing.

Every day as I explored the city, I couldn’t help but feel frustrated at the immense traffic that was generated by people who drove by their own illogical rules.  I didn’t see the point in traffic lights and road signs as nobody seemed to follow them anyway.  As if the ignorance of road rules was bad enough, there were camels, mules, cows and monkeys causing mayhem in the middle of the streets during rush hour.  Nobody seemed to raise an eyebrow let alone bat an eye, as honking cars maneuvered past urinating cows and famished street children at busy intersections.  On several occasions I witnessed entire families on single tattered bicycles trudging down the highway going the opposite direction into speeding cars, oblivious to their near brush with death.  And to all of the reckless moped drivers- do you really think that your turbans take the place of safety helmets?  If people honored traffic rules and actually stopped at a red light, then the constant traffic jams would let up.  The utter inefficiency of ignoring all form of order and common sense was flabbergasting.  But….that’s India.

On another one of these typical days in New Delhi where my senses were being flooded with the absurdities of the culture, I went to seek refuge at my new found urban paradise, the Aman Resort.  I was captivated by the peaceful atmosphere of this beautiful hotel on my first visit, and my soul yearned to make its pilgrimage back there.  This time I went to the split level Tapas Lounge that boasted a wood-fired oven in the large open kitchen and was decorated lavishly yet tastefully with silver leaf ceilings and leather flooring. The ground floor is where this action is, and where diners can enjoy Spanish wines and sangrias in a sexy and seductive atmosphere.  The second floor lounge, with an unobstructed view of the reflection pool, is where diners can stretch out on plush sofas and leaf through rare Taschen books.   The third floor is more formal and traditional for those who want to get serious and enjoy the resident Spanish chef’s wonderful tasting menus.

Spanish chef Jonay Armas runs the kitchen at the Tapas Lounge.  Young and handsome Armas has worked alongside famed Michelin starred Catalan chef Santi Santamaria, among other reputable chefs like Paco Roncero.  He did a lovely tasting menu lunch for us in the relaxing second floor lounge.  The vegetarian portion of the tapas menu featured classic dishes like patatas bravas, ensaladilla rusa and tortilla Española, and a Papas Canarias with Mojo to reflect his Canary Island heritage.  Non vegetarian items included garlic prawns, lamb skewers and cured anchovies.   All, except for a plate of jamon iberico, were under 350 Rupees ($7 US).

The toasted almonds and house cured olives were amazing.  The olives were meaty and succulent, bursting with aromatic juice and savor.  We started our fantastic meal with one of the best gazpachos that I have ever had.  Slivers of fresh garlic, forest green basil oil and a twist of finely ground black pepper added the perfect amount of zest to this silky Andalucian tomato soup.  The amalgam of vegetable essences was rich and dense, and the intense flavors in each spoonful coated my sensory receptors with a magical fruity veil.

I was in meat lover’s paradise with the grilled chorizo dish.  Of course, the chorizo was imported from Spain, as the predominantly Hindu and Muslim populations of India do not eat pork.  It’s very difficult for me to survive more than 2 days without pork products, so this grilled plate, saturated with the finest pork essence and drippings ever imaginable, was a heaven sent gift.  Each slice had that perfect crunchy sear that is necessary to concentrate the meat flavors.

Tender cubes of crispy potatoes on a bed of spicy red tomato sauce were generously layered with creamy aioli in the patatas bravas dish.  Each cube had a pleasantly crisp exterior with the perfect amount of oiliness to complement the rich aioli.

Crispy calamari was indeed extra crispy with a wonderful light texture.  These deep fried rings of seafood delight, with a squeeze of sour lemon and a light dip into the aioli, were delightful.  Once you start, you can’t stop…

We enjoyed our delicious meal with a refreshing glass of their Sangrina, a virgin sangria with diced apples.

Chef Armas brought up this plate of assorted croquettes with fresh green salad.  Mushroom, chicken and jamon croquettes were warm and toasty.  As I bit through the perfectly fried crunchy shell, the creamy rich filling melted in my mouth and gently massaged my tongue into a catatonic bliss.

We finished our fantastic meal with crema catalana, the Spanish version of crème brûlée.  As I struck the top layer with my spoon, the solid burnt caramel shattered into large pieces and gave way to the sweet pool of cream underneath.  I watched the silver spoon slowly sink into the thick ooze of vanilla sap before I pounced on it with my ravenous appetite.

The luxurious and serene Aman Resort, one of my favorite resorts in the whole world, allowed me to escape from the noisy and turbulent streets of New Delhi.  With Chef Armas’ magical touch, my dining experience at the Tapas Lounge took me further along in my retreat away from reality to the lush green countrysides of Spain.  These delectable dishes were some of the best tapas that I have ever had, and it rivaled some of my most memorable plates that I had in Barcelona.  We concluded our Aman experience with a fascinating tour through the wine cellars and cigar humidors.

My body is back in the US, but my heart and spirit still remain attached to the tranquil grounds of the Aman Resort…

The Aman Resort, New Delhi

Lodhi Road, New Delhi 110003
India

tel (91) 11 4363 3333

Random trivia: Did you know that gazpacho, the most famous Andalucian dish of chilled vegetable soup, was originally considered poor man’s food?  It was made with bread, water and olive oil, all pounded in a wooden bowl called a dornillo.  Later versions were made with bread, water, anchovy bones, salt and olive oil.  It wasn’t until Christopher Columbus introduced tomatoes to Europe in the 1400’s that tomatoes were added to gazpacho.

The Aman, Aman Resort – New Delhi, India

Have you ever been inside of a hotel or a resort that was so beautiful that it took your breath away?  I’ve stayed at amazing oceanfront resorts in places like Hawaii, Okinawa, Phuket and the Maldives where it was primarily the ocean view and the majestic landscapes that made it worth the money.  It wasn’t until I stepped foot inside of the new Aman resort in New Delhi India that I truly, for the first time ever, fell in love with the actual hotel.  Once I passed the security gate and check points, which are present in all New Delhi hotels, I took one look down the entrance hall and gasped.  What was this serenity in the air, the almost fabricated silence that was so far removed from the chaotic streets outside?  A smiling attendant in crisp uniform welcomed me to the hotel as he tended to a few flickering candles floating in large marigold tubs.

The tapping sounds of my heels against the marble floors resonated and echoed throughout the wide hallways and high ceilings as I walked through the quiet resort.  The hallways were dimly lit except for the occasional spotlights that illuminated doors and passageways.  I felt like a special guest invited into a secret society, as numerous staff escorted me down the long corridor that faced the large outdoor reflection pool.  It was night time, and the smooth glass-like surface of the pool was gently lit up in hazy spots of soft yellow from the glow of the guest room lights above.  Time seemed to stop in this exclusive space that was a secret and mystical world far far away from reality.  I almost felt unworthy of being in this peaceful world, this modern monastery, this temple of luxury, that the Aman group had just opened a year ago.

Once inside of the large restaurant space called The Aman, the decor transformed from zen minimalist to modern Mughal architecture.  Soft outdoor lights seeped through the jaali screens into the hallway, casting fine geometric patterns onto the floor.  We walked by the Naoki counter, a counter- seating only restaurant that serves contemporary French kaiseki cuisine.  The Japanese chef said that it was his dream to work at an Aman resort, and he seemed genuinely happy to be fulfilling this dream.  I, on the other hand, felt like I was sleepwalking through a fantastical dream of my own, and feared that this elegant world would disappear when I woke up.

We had dinner at The Aman restaurant which mainly offers a selection of Thai and Indian cuisine.  We rested our backs against large plush cushions inside spacious white leather banquettes and took in the majestic sight of this luxurious dining space.  The food menu offered an amazing selection of international fare, from Italian pastas and French charcuterie to Moroccan stews and Thai soups.  Since the executive chef was Thai, we decided to order heavily on classic Thai dishes for our meal. Meanwhile, my jaw dropped in sheer awe and excitement as I perused the wine encyclopedia.  The 40 page menu listed some exclusive wines that I could only dream of ever tasting.  1978 Domaine Leroy premier cru Les Chevenottes, 1995 Chateau Mouton Rothschild and a Spanish 1986 Magnum Unico-Artisit Label by Bodegas Vega Sicilia.  Oh, if only…

Instead, we had 2 great glasses of white wine.  The Mercurey by Domaine Faiveley from Burgundy had a light and fruity flavor with a noticeable citrus undertone.  I was impressed with the glass of Placet white Rioja by Alvaro Palacios, which had a sweeter refined flavor that was more mellow than the Burgundy white.

We started our meal with tom kha gai, Thai coconut soup with chicken.  The soup had large meaty chunks of delicious oyster and eringi mushrooms, and the chicken had a tender milky texture.  The broth wasn’t too heavy or creamy as many tom kha gai tend to be, and it was easy to finish the whole bowl.  It was one of the best tom kha gai soups that I have ever had.  It was far more polished and sophisticated than any that I have ever tasted before.

Yam nua, beef tenderloin Thai salad with chiles, cucumbers, lime and Thai herbs, was mediocre.  The texture of the meat was quite tough, but since the majority of Indians do not consume beef, I imagine it’s quite difficult to import good quality beef. Otherwise, the sour citrus flavors and tangy spices in this salad dish were delicious.

Tandoori chicken, perhaps the most quintessential chicken dish in Indian cuisine, was excellent here at The Aman.  The yogurt and spice marinade was rich in flavor and aroma, and the meat was grilled to perfection.  It was a well-groomed and genteel version of Tandoori chicken, unlike some of its robust and full-bodied counterparts that I’ve had in the states, but I really loved the cleaner and more elegant flavors of the spices in this dish.  The lotus root and mango pickle, pickled red onions, and mint-coriander chutney that came with the chicken were all outstanding.  These 3 condiments could have made a great meal just on their own.

The pad thai came beautifully served in a thin egg sheet wrap, and was plated tableside.  I couldn’t believe that I was having one of the most delicious pad thai dishes in the middle of India.

There were an astounding 13 choices on the dessert menu, and we started with an Indian dessert for our first course.  Pistachio kulfi was served on glass noodles with a rose and saffron syrup.  The chopped pistachio nuts added a great crunchy texture to the thick dense Indian ice cream.  The glass noodles reminded me too much of Japanese shirataki noodles that are usually eaten in savory dishes like sukiyaki and nabe, and I couldn’t fully enjoy this plate.

We also ordered a yogurt and mango terrine with raspberry and mango coulis.  The light and airy mousse terrine was delicious, but I was more fascinated with the 3 dimensional chocolate ribbon and the plating of the fruit coulis that looked like a Joan Miró painting.

With the wonderful staff’s attention to detail and their impeccable service, my short time at the Aman Resort was like a heavenly dream come true.  I felt like I was floating peacefully and slowly through a Shangri-la paradise where everything was just perfect.  I wanted to stay there forever, but that was an impossible wish.  I had to leave the beautiful resort grounds to go back out into the harsh reality of the crowded and polluted streets of New Delhi.  As I drove by the Presidential palace, I observed its grandeur and majesty, but still longed for my Aman palace.

Aman Resort, New Delhi

Lodhi Road, New Delhi 110003
India

tel (91) 11 4363 3333

Random trivia: Did you know that marigold flowers got their name from ‘Mary’s Gold’?  Early Christians offered these bright yellow and orange flowers in place of real gold when worshiping statues of the Virgin Mary.  In India marigolds are considered auspicious, and can be found everywhere- as garlands hung around statues of Hindu gods, and at weddings and festivals.

Wasabi – New Delhi, India

Any Iron Chef fans out there?  I’m not talking about Iron Chef America.

Growing up in Tokyo, I used to love watching the original Iron Chef on television.  Back in the 90’s the show was a huge hit in Japan, where people all over the country tuned in every week to watch a brave newcomer battle one of 7 distinguished Iron Chefs.  The show featured chefs from all types of cuisines- Kenichi Chin who was a master of Chinese cuisine, Rokusaburo Michiba who represented traditional Japanese kaiseki and French chef Hiroyuki Sakai to name a few.  Sadly, the show ended in 1999, only to be replaced by a more westernized version called Iron Chef America that I haven’t been able to embrace.  I saw it coming when I watched in sheer horror as future Iron Chef America Bobby Flay jumped on top of his wooden cutting board with his filthy shoes while pumping his fists like a drunken baboon in a premature victory cry against Morimoto in an original Iron Chef episode.  What a disgrace for any chef to contaminate his sacred wooden cutting board where once living animals and fish are prepared for our nutrition.  And what irony that now both Flay and Morimoto are resident Iron Chefs on the American show.

There are a lot of things that bother me about Iron Chef America.  Chairman Dacascos’ exaggerated acting, for one.  It makes me feel very uncomfortable when I see his adrenaline pumped dilated pupils stare into the screen as his robotic limbs flail about in a mechanically uncoordinated dance.  His animated persona at the beginning of the show gradually wanes with time, and by the end of the meal his presence starts to disappear from the screen as he squeaks his refusal to eat dessert, claiming that he is watching his waistline.  And why do they always put English subtitles for Morimoto, even when he’s speaking English? I only watched 2 episodes of Iron Chef America and I was done.

Although I have a disdain for Iron Chef America and for Morimoto, who probably started off as a humble chef in Japan but has now transformed into an arrogant Americanized celebrity, I applaud him for making it big here in the states.  America is the land of opportunity, but it’s not every day that a foreigner achieves huge success and becomes a household name.   After all, Morimoto is an extremely talented chef whose creations make me drool with excitement.  Morimoto has restaurants in New York, Florida and Philadelphia that are all doing well.  You would think that his next venture would be in London, Paris or even Dubai.  Did you know that he has a restaurant in New Delhi, India?

I went to India a couple of months ago to visit my brother who lives in New Delhi.  Although I was looking forward to spending my first day eating dosas and curries, ironically my very first dining out experience in India was lunch at Morimoto’s restaurant called Wasabi.  I joined my sister in law who was meeting some friends there for lunch.  Wasabi, a contemporary Japanese dining restaurant, opened in 2008 in the lower level of the Taj Mahal Hotel in the center of New Delhi after a successful run of the same restaurant in Mumbai.

The restaurant was small and quaint in size, though grand and a bit clamorous in decor.  Dark red lamps hung over the open grill flanked next to a blood red painting of roses.  I didn’t mind the geometric lines and contemporary furniture so much as the fluorescent purple glow that the ceiling lights cast onto my food.  3 Japanese sushi chefs stood poised behind the sushi counter as they greeted expatriate business men and Indian madams for the lunch service.  I talked to the head sushi chef who told me that their fish was flown in from Tsukiji twice a week.  I also asked him how he found living in New Delhi, and he chuckled nervously as he shook his head from side to side (in a western gesture of ‘no’, not the Indian gesture of ‘yes’).

Our amuse was a pickled lotus root served with kuromame and a garnish of parsley leaf.  I was nervous about eating at a Japanese restaurant in India, but this dish exemplified simple authentic flavors of sweet and sour in a typical manner of understated beauty.

Even the salad was good at Wasabi.  I made a vow not to eat any raw vegetables while traveling through India, but this was obviously an exception.  The simple vinaigrette was refreshing and tart, and the dried bonito shavings were flavorful.

I couldn’t believe that I was eating sushi in New Delhi- and excellent sushi at that.  The sushi lunch set came with 2 types of tamago (egg) which were both soft and spongy, spicy tuna rolls, ikura and an assortment of fresh fish flown in from Tsukiji the day before.  My favorites were the chu-toro (fatty tuna) and hamachi (yellowtail) which tasted as good as anything that I would get in Tokyo, and the salmon, scallop, squid and mackerel were all fantastic.  Although the restaurant is called Wasabi, I didn’t expect freshly grated wasabi to actually be served with my sushi.  I felt like I was in Japan, and the fact that I was in this chaotic city of New Delhi hadn’t quite sunken in.

Our fellow Indian diners weren’t feeling adventurous enough to try raw fish, so they ordered teppan yaki grilled prawns for their lunch set.  The prawns were plump and sweet, and the soy garlic sauce that they were sauteed in was marvelous.  The large and extensive menu offered an array of grilled meats, fish and tempura, and I was impressed with the variety of choices that Wasabi offered.  Even more impressive was the beverage list.  They had a complete and comprehensive sake and tea list that featured fine selections from Japan.  The sake list was divided into categories like junmai daiginjo and honjyozo, and teas like kukicha, sencha, genmaicha and gyokuro filled up a whole page on the menu.

Green tea mousse cake, in a strange glow-in-the-dark color, was fluffy and light.  Its subdued sweetness and delicate flavors reminded me of patisseries in Ginza.

In this city where the residents are predominantly vegetarian and do not drink alcohol, I initially wondered how this restaurant could survive.  The small bar to the left of the entrance, lined with rows of whiskey bottles, practically screamed sin.  However, even at lunchtime on a weekday, the restaurant was bustling with customers and the small private dining room was quickly taken by a group of 6.  Sushi seems like an alien concept to the Indian community, but I saw that there was a high demand for this type of cuisine in New Delhi.  The growing Indian economy and business industry attracts foreigners with a taste for global cuisine, and this is exactly the type of place that they seek for business lunches, fancy dinners and a special dining experience.  I thought it was clever and brave of Morimoto to pinpoint this specific niche in a part of the world that seems the farthest from Tsukiji.

Wasabi

The Taj Mahal Hotel

1, Mansingh Road
New Delhi – 110 011
India.
Tel No.: (91-11) 23026162

Random trivia: Did you know that the lotus root, which has 9-10 holes, is considered to be an auspicious vegetable?  It is believed that through these many holes, one can see through to a positive and prosperous future.  Also, each lotus flower seed cup contains many seeds, which is believed to represent fertility.

Hatchi Series at the Breadbar – Ricardo Zarate

Ever since I started going to the Hatchi dinner series at the Breadbar in Century City, I find myself anxiously counting down the days to the following event, as it only seems to get better and better each month.  Since June 2009, the Breadbar has featured a new guest chef every month at their innovative Hatchi event where these talented chefs serve 8 dishes for $8 each.  Hatchi means 8 in Japanese, and chefs prepare 6 savory and 2 sweet dishes for this one night-only event.  They are given complete freedom to express their culinary creativity and showcase their unique personality and style.  It’s also a wonderful opportunity for diners to sample new foods in a casual environment for a low price.

Past events at the Hatchi series spotlighted distinguished chefs such as Debbie Lee, Michael Voltaggio, Roberto Cortez, Remi Lauvand, Eda Vesterman, Waylynn Lucas and Marcel Vigneron.  January’s event featured Ricardo Zarate, executive chef at Mo-Chica in downtown LA.  Mo-Chica is a small restaurant inside of the Mercado La Paloma that serves contemporary Peruvian cuisine.  Although they’ve been open for less than a year, they’ve already created quite a buzz with their luscious ceviches and hearty stews.  Chef Ricardo Zarate, who hails from Lima, incorporates  local ingredients and fresh produce to create beautiful dishes that stay true to Peruvian culture and flavor.   However, there’s also another side to him.  He’s worked in upscale Japanese restaurants such as Zuma and Tetsuya in London, and most recently as executive chef at Wabi-Sabi in Venice.  I was excited to see how he would express this marriage of Peruvian flavors and Japanese aesthetics into his one night event at the Breadbar, called Peru Mucho Gusto (Peru, Nice to meet you).

I knew it was going to be a fun and special night when I was greeted at my table by young and beautiful Fumi, the Japanese owner of Mo-Chica.  ‘Akemashite omedetou gozaimasu!’- Happy New Year! she shouted with a huge smile, as she handed us Mo-Chica keychains wrapped inside traditional Japanese otoshidama bags.  It’s a tradition in Japan for children to receive money from relatives and family friends during New Year’s day, and it’s usually presented inside small decorated envelopes.  Getting otoshidama from all of my relatives was the highlight of New Year for me growing up in Tokyo.  It had been a really long time since anybody gave me one, so I really appreciated this fun act of hospitality. She also passed out roasted peanuts served inside origami kabuto (samurai helmets) made with Japanese newspaper.

We ordered a round of the Pisco Sour 2010 cocktail, made with pisco, fresh lemon juice, orange juice and egg whites. The egg white foam was light and airy, and the balance of tequila with citrus flavors was delicious.

The first of 8 courses was the Sopa de Coliflor, purple cauliflower soup.  The purple hued soup was garnished with generous chunks of crispy pancetta, a drizzle of feta cheese dressing and cilantro, and offered with a side of crispy croutons.  I loved the smooth and silky texture of the warm soup, and the different layers of flavors in each bite.  There was a hint of sourness in the soup that made it really refreshing, and the tartness of the feta cheese and cilantro kept it alive.  This was one of my favorite dishes of the evening.

The Causa Trio of peruvian potato salad with 3 different seafood toppings was Chef Zarate’s interpretation of 3 classic sushi rolls.  Here we can see our first hint of how Zarate integrates Japanese and Peruvian concepts.  Each piece had the same base of yellow potato salad that was soft and light.  The one to the left in the photo had a topping of chunky scallops with mentaiko sauce.  Mentaiko is spicy marinated pollock roe, which is commonly used in Japanese cuisine.  The center piece was topped with a mixture of shredded blue crab with mayo and huancaina sauce.  Huancaina sauce is a thick yellow Peruvian sauce made with aji amarillo, or yellow Peruvian pepper.  The preparation to the right featured spicy blue fin tuna with rocoto aioli, made with hot rocoto chili peppers from Peru.  I loved Chef Zarate’s playful and unique Peruvian twist on the popular spicy tuna, blue crab and spicy scallop rolls.

Mo-Chica has made a name for itself through its famous ceviches, and I was curious to see what kind of ceviche Zarate was going to serve at this special event.  Ceviche Mixto that night was made with tairagai, uni and sea bass marinated in leche de tigre sauce.  Although each Latin American country has their own version of ceviche, the Peruvian style is often served with leche de tigre (tiger’s milk) sauce that is made with Peruvian peppers (in this case aji amarillo peppers), lime, onions, garlic and a hint of Pisco.  Of course there’s no actual tiger’s milk in these astringent tart marinades, but its potency is believed to be an aphrodisiac and a cure for hangovers. The chunks of marinated tairagai and fish were nestled inside of a tairagai shell, topped with cilantro and slices of red onion.  Slivers of uni added a sweet creaminess which mellowed the sharp acidity of the ceviche, and the large kernels of giant Inca corn added great texture to the dish.

It was around this time that they introduced the live band and dancers for the Festejo performance. This was a first for the Breadbar Hatchi series to have live entertainment, and we were lucky to have scored front row orchestra seats to this spectacular show.  The general mood at the event was already festive, but the live music brought the energy level up a whole notch.  The drummer beat on the cajón box drum with fire and intent, while the Peruvian flute narrated a tale of Incan history and passion.  The female dancer swirled and twirled very gracefully around the small space in front of the pastry case, smiling happily yet seductively, and the male dancer pounded his bare feet into the concrete with determination and rhythm.  It was an astounding performance, and everybody put down their forks to watch this mesmerizing show.

Tiradito de Pescado was a hamachi carpaccio served with sundried tomato yuzu dressing and topped with a mixture of chopped green onions, tomatoes, Peruvian corn and cilantro.  Tiradito is a Peruvian dish that is more like a carpaccio, and its origins come from sashimi-eating Japanese immigrants who came to Peru.  Although similar in concept to ceviche, tiradito dishes feature raw fish that is sliced long and thin in sashimi style, and is not doused in an onion-heavy marinade.  The hamachi slices were beautifully marbled with light yet flavorful fat, and the yuzu dressing was the perfect complement.

Carapulcra, which is an old Peruvian stew that is traditionally made in clay pots with dried potatoes, chiles, peanuts and spices, was reinvented in a contemporary style with roasted black cod.  It is believed that Carapulcra is the oldest Peruvian stew and that its ancient origins go back to pre-Incan times.  A perfectly cooked piece of moist black cod was topped with a tangy chimichurri sauce and chewy bits of fried pancetta.  The sour and bitter flavors of the chimichurri was a wonderful contrast to the earthy carapulcra made with peruvian sun dried potatoes.  I was in love with the hearty potato stew, and although it was the first time that I had carapulcra, it gave me the same feeling of comfort and warmth that ramen does. The next time that I’m craving comfort food, I’m going straight to Mo-Chica to get me some carapulcra.

Seco de Cordero represented pure traditional Peruvian cuisine.  This lamb shoulder stew was braised in black beer and seasoned with cilantro, aji peppers and cumin.  Peruvian canario beans, which are similar to Italian cannellini beans, added a gratifying dose of heartiness to the delicious stew, while the salsa criolla, made with sliced onions, tomatoes, cilantro and chili peppers, intensified the bursting complexity of flavors in each bite.

The tender chunks of lamb had absorbed all of the marvelous flavors in the stew, and we were literally fighting over this dish.  Now that I know that this dish is on the regular menu at Mo-Chica, I wish I hadn’t been so aggressive with my dining companions in eating most of the stew.  I almost lost myself and my manners in this captivating bowl of cordero heaven.

One of the 2 desserts that we had was titled Selva Negra- possibly after the Selva Negra cloud forest reserve in Nicaragua which is famous for producing great organic coffee, since the flourless chocolate cake looked like a cup of coffee.  The chocolate cake came straight out of the oven and was served nice and warm.  I really enjoyed the bright orange colored lúcuma ice cream with tamarillo sauce.  I had never even heard of lúcuma before this Breadbar event, but it’s an Andean subtropical fruit also known as ‘eggfruit’, that’s mostly found in Peru.  It tasted like a combination of very familiar flavors, and we were all trying to figure out how to describe its taste.  It reminded me of ube, Filipino purple yam, while another tasted sweet potatoes, and yet another tasted maple syrup.  The more lucent yellow tamarillo sauce, made from the tamarillo fruit which is native to Peru, had a tart flavor that reminded me of passion fruit and oranges.  This ice cream was to die for.

Last but not least, the 8th dish of the Hatchi series dinner showcased yet another Peruvian specialty.  Kiwicha Con Leche Y Esencia De Mazamorra was served elegantly in a martini glass.  Kiwicha, also known as amaranth, is a superfood of sorts, an Andean supergrain high in nutritional value that has been cultivated and used by the Incas and the Aztecs.  These fine round grains which almost look like quinoa, are the size of poppy seeds.  It was prepared with milk to make a dessert that resembled tapioca pudding.  The dark sauce poured over the kiwicha looked like rich chocolate, but was in fact made with mazamorra, or purple maize cooked with cinnamon and sweet potato flour.  Although this dessert looked sweet and heavy, it was surprisingly light and easy to eat.  Since I don’t have a sweet tooth, I really appreciated this simple and savory dessert.

And just like that, another successful and fun Hatchi event came and went like the wind.  Chef Zarate’s Peru Mucho Gusto event seemed to be over in a blink of an eye, since we were having so much fun.  With the delicious food, the fantastic music, intoxicating dancing and impeccable service from the Breadbar staff, this was the best Hatchi dinner so far for me.  I really enjoyed learning about all of these new foods and flavor combinations.  I realized that there is still so much out there in this big world that my taste buds haven’t experienced yet.  It motivated me to travel more and open myself up to new experiences and cultures.  Thank you Chef Zarate for introducing me to the dynamic flavors of your beautiful Peruvian culture, and for honoring my Japanese culture in your perfectly integrated dishes.

Mo-Chica

3655 S Grand Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90007

(213) 747-2141

Breadbar

Upcoming Hatchi dinner events:

February 25th – Iso Rabins, Forage

March 25th – Kuniko Yagi, Burning Sensation

April 29th – Saul Cooperstein, Deli 2010

Random trivia: Did you know that kiwicha, for its high content in protein, lysine, carbohydrates and minerals, is considered to be one of nature’s most potent foods?  This grain is packed with such high amounts of energy and nutrition that it’s part of the NASA energy food pack used by astronauts on their long trips in space.

Gordon Ramsay at the London – Part Deux

Cooking in the kitchen and inviting people into my home for a nice meal is one of the things that I enjoy the most in life.   I love the intimacy of sharing memorable feasts with special friends.  However, there are times when it’s nice to be on the receiving end- who doesn’t like to be pampered?  After a whole weekend of cooking and hosting for my birthday, I was ready to kick back for some fine dining in LA.  I couldn’t think of any other place to go for a relaxing lunch to celebrate my special day than the Gordon Ramsay restaurant at The London Hotel in West Hollywood.  Last year I celebrated another friend’s birthday there, and we had a spectacular meal.  In addition, one of my favorite sous chefs was working in the kitchen that day.  Chef Kishi did an amazing chef’s tasting lunch for me.

The restaurant greeted me with a wonderful bottle of René Geoffroy Brut Rosé champagne, premier cru.  This was one of the best champagnes that I have had in a very long time.  This champagne, from the Marne Valley in Champagne France, had a mellow yet accomplished taste that was full of fruity flavors.  It had a clean taste that slid across my tongue very smoothly.

We started off with this delicious amuse.  Scottish salmon gravlax with horseradish cream, kumquat confit and microgreens was an explosion of subdued sweetness and rich creaminess.  The tender cut of cured salmon was exquisite in both texture and flavor, and the hint of horseradish was perfect in drawing out the sweet and tart flavors of the kumquat.  Deep fried goat cheese balls in beet root sauce were warm, fluffy and light.

The seafood tartare, made with bluefin tuna, hamachi, wasabi tobiko, apple and daikon cubes, was topped with edible flowers and a generous heap of caviar.  The dish was garnished with ponzu foam, micro cilantro and lemon oil.  Through its many complex layers of flavors and textures, this dish was a carnival of delights in my mouth.  As the light ponzu foam collapsed in my mouth, I could feel the microscopic air bubbles tickle my upper palate and the tart flavors permeate up into my nasal passages. My tongue enjoyed the alternating textures of tender fish, crunchy daikon and apple cubes, and popping fish roe.  I loved the smooth gradation of salty and sour flavors, from the ponzu foam and lemon oil to the delicious caviar.

The duck confit risotto with shimeji mushrooms and maitake tempura was excellent.  I am a huge fan of Chef Kishi’s risottos, as they are always cooked to a perfect consistency.  The morsels of duck were plump and juicy, the tempura battered maitake was crunchy and light, and the light drizzle of truffle oil elevated the beautiful earthy aroma of this fantastic dish.

Monkfish wrapped in prosciutto with creamed brussel sprouts and zucchini was served with a side of cockles and mussels, and dressed with a thai curry sauce.  I expected this dish to be heavy due to the presence of prosciutto, creamed vegetables and thai curry sauce, but it was surprisingly light and easy to eat.  The perfect amount of saltiness from the prosciutto and thai curry sauce complemented the delicate flavors of the fresh fish and mollusks.  Although it was a shame to have to destroy this beautiful dish, I had no problems finishing it off to the last smidgen of sauce.

Braised pork belly proudly took center stage and flaunted its hat of pea sprouts and radish rings, while its mysterious side kick, a pig’s head croquette, sat on a bed of pea purée and pickled red onions in the background.  The slightly crisp exterior of the rolled pork belly was a nice contrast to the warm and moist meat inside, but it wasn’t until I inserted my knife into the unassuming croquette that the show took an abrupt twist.

The deep fried croquette, filled with pig’s head cheese, literally and figuratively exploded onto the scene with its glistening chunks of savory meat and collagen.  The intense richness of these ambrosial delights that had been braised for hours, made me melt in my seat in an amorous swoon.  In a matter of one bite, this once demure and reserved croquette proved itself to be the true showstopper.  The creamy pea purée and the acidity of the pickled onions were fitting stage props that made the pig’s head taste even better.  I gave a standing ovation to this shining star.

This refreshing dessert had layers of grapefruit confit, mint leaves, grapefruit granité, mint granité and grapefruit foam.  The progression of textures through the different icy cold layers was really enjoyable.  The tart and citrus flavors sent an invigorating splash of cool to my taste buds.

Our superb tasting menu concluded with this cute chocolate mousse birthday cake that made me really happy.  No matter how old we get, it’s always a special and innocent moment to blow out a birthday candle and make a wish.  With this amazing lunch at the Gordon Ramsay restaurant, I was able to finish my birthday weekend with a big successful bang.  Délicieux!

The Gordon Ramsay at the London, West Hollywood

1020 N. San Vicente Blvd.
West Hollywood, CA 90069
Ph: 1-866-282-4560

Random trivia: Did you know that kumquats, also known as ‘the little gold gems of the citrus family’, are the only citrus fruits that can be eaten ‘skin and all’?  In fact, the peel is the sweetest part of the fruit and the pulp is sour.

Birthday Dinner Party- Part 3, Leftovers

The morning after my amazing birthday dinner party, I woke up with a slight hangover and trudged over to the kitchen.  Although my friends helped me wash the dishes, there was still a lot of cleaning up that needed to be done.  I looked around at the aftermath of the party and smiled – empty bottles of wine and champagne, birthday cards and gifts on the floor by the fireplace, the guitar casually resting on my couch, half empty champagne flutes in random places around the living room, the aluminum cylinder planter that was severely bent out of shape from using it as a drum during an impromptu jam session, and lots of dirty footprints on the kitchen tiles from the heavy foot traffic.  It was a raging party!

I was hungry, but my stomach had too much rich food and alcohol the night before, so I was craving comfort food.  Something Asian, something that would hit the spot.  I looked inside the fridge to see what I could eat.  There were 4 pork legs left over from the pig feast, and I remembered back to the numerous times that I visited Ruen Pair in Thai Town in the middle of the night for Khao Kha Moo.  It’s my favorite dish there, and it always hits the spot.  I got inspired and motivated to make it that day. 

Khao Kha Moo, stewed pork leg over rice, is a popular street food in Thailand.  It’s usually made with a fresh hunk of pork shank, but I figured that these roasted piglet legs would do just fine.  I crushed garlic cloves and Szechuan peppercorns in my granite mortar into a paste. 

I placed the pork legs into my beloved Le Creuset dutch oven and added water, black soy sauce, thin soy sauce, brown sugar,  Shaoxing rice wine and the garlic paste. 

In addition, I threw in some cinnamon sticks, star anise, black peppercorns and Chinese Five spice powder.  After bringing it to a boil, I lowered the heat to a gentle simmer and let it braise on the stovetop for a few hours.  The lovely smell of Thai pork stew filled my kitchen and permeated into the hallways.

After a few hours I opened the cover of my dutch oven to find this delightful surprise- rich, dark reduced sauce and tender meat that was starting to fall off the bones.  I stared at this pot in amazement and started drooling out of the corners of my mouth.  The skin and meat fell apart effortlessly, and I didn’t even have to use a knife to cut them for the dish. 

I bought a packet of pickled mustard greens from a market in Thai Town, and quickly boiled them in chicken stock.  I assembled the pork with these mustard greens over steamed jasmine rice, sprinkled fresh cilantro and stew jus over the dish, and served it with a green chili vinegar sauce.  I think it only took me 5 minutes to devour the whole thing.  It was delicious, and it really hit the spot.  Ever since Ruen Pair went under new management, the Khao Kha Moo hasn’t been as good there.  Thus, I can now confidently say that my Khao Kha Moo kicks Ruen Pair’s ass. 

I also had a ton of Mission figs left over from the feast.  I bought a whole carton, thinking that I would use it all in the seared foie gras dish, but I only used a half.  Figs are delicate fruits that go bad very quickly once they’re ripe, so I decided to make a fig compote that would keep in the fridge for weeks. 

I threw in these fresh Mission figs into my pot with a little bit of water, some left over red wine from the party, and a whole lot of port wine. 

I added some cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise, a squeeze of organic honey, and let it simmer in the pot for a while until the figs started to become soft and mushy. 

That evening, and for many evenings after that,  I enjoyed this luscious and dark port wine-fig compote over vanilla bean ice cream.  The dark and rich syrup was amazing with the vanilla flavors.  I’ve tried the compote with yogurt, pastries, seared duck breast and mascarpone cheese, but my favorite combination is vanilla ice cream. 

Left overs get a bad rap, but depending on what you do with them, they’re not so bad.  In fact, they can be amazing if you take the time to love them and nurture them.  All it takes is understanding how to cook them in a way that best represents their potential.  What’s sitting in your fridge right now, waiting to be transformed into something wonderful? 

Random trivia:  Did you know that khao kha moo was one of Samak Sundaravej’s favorite foods?  He was a famous celebrity chef and food critic in Thailand who became Thai’s Prime Minister in early 2008.  He even had his own cooking show called Tasting, Ranting that was a huge hit in Thailand.  Sadly, his term only lasted 9 months, after he was ousted due to controversial political and legal activities. Even more sadly, he just passed away a few months ago.  RIP.

We’ve already elected Hollywood actors as California governor and President of the United States.  It may not be too far in the future that one of our famous celebrity chefs becomes our nation’s next leader.  Bobby Flay?  Paula Deen? Todd English?

Birthday Dinner Party- Part 2, Feast

On the day of a big event, there is always something that goes wrong.  No matter how well things are planned in advance, and even if you make room for error and mishaps, something always happens which throws everyone for a loop.  I’m very meticulous and detail oriented almost to a fault, and I thought that I had planned my birthday dinner party perfectly.  However, without fail, something happened.  I got a call from my chef friend Haru the night before.

“Um…..how big is your oven?”

“……….Why?”

The roast suckling pig that we ordered had just arrived, and it wasn’t the petite piglet that I had envisioned.  I wanted to roast a small piglet whole, maybe even stick an apple in its mouth, and present this majestic plate to my dinner guests.  Instead, a humongous 3 foot long pig arrived at his doorsteps, and I shook my head in disbelief as I tried to figure out whether to laugh or feel stressed.  Thanks to my generous and experienced friend who broke down the large animal and prepped the individual pieces, the whole process went smoothly and we were back on schedule.

I was really excited for this birthday dinner party.  For some, the ultimate birthday fantasy may be dining at a 3 Michelin star restaurant, or a romantic getaway to the Bahamas, or a hot air balloon ride over Napa Valley, or a spa day with girlfriends.  For me, it’s inviting close friends over to my home and cooking for them.  It entails a tremendous amount of work, from shopping to cooking, cleaning my house to setting the table, from being hostess to sommelier, server to busboy, and let’s not forget what a chore it is to clean up the day after.  But I love every minute of it, and I’m truly happiest working in and around the kitchen.  Plus, dining at somebody’s home beats dining at a restaurant any day.  You know that the chef is cooking for you and only you, the seats are more comfortable and there’s more room to relax and hang out, you can play your choice of music at whatever volume you want, it’s private dining at the chef’s table, and hypothetically this ‘restaurant’ is open for as long as you’re there.  If you’ve had too much to drink, you can even spend the night there!

Menu for the 10 course meal

Farmers’ Market strawberries with sugar and freshly ground black peppercorns…

As my friends arrived with wonderful bottles of champagne and wine in hand, I greeted them a glass of chilled champagne and steered them over to the do-it-yourself station of succulent strawberries, sugar and freshly ground black peppercorns. You dip the flatly cut end of the strawberry into sugar first, and then the black pepper.  Pop it in your mouth, savor the wonderful combination of flavors for a while, then follow it with a swig of champagne.  The spicy kick of the black pepper surprisingly doesn’t overwhelm the strawberries at all, but instead enhances the sweetness of the fruit.

Kumamoto and Fanny Bay Oysters…

A big thank you to my friend Haru who patiently shucked all of the oysters for the party and helped with the cooking.  I learned how to shuck these bivalves in culinary school, but I knew that the seasoned veteran could do a better and faster job.  The crisp and clean flavored Fanny Bay oysters from British Columbia were perfect on their own, so they were offered with a choice of lemon wedges or shallot  vinaigrette.

The Kumamoto oysters from Humbolt Bay in California were also delicious.  We decided to experiment with these oysters that had a more milky and mellow flavor. Some were served with ponzu and chopped scallions.  Others were consumed with the shallot vinaigrette.  We also tried drizzling some argan oil over both the ponzu and the vinaigrette combinations.  All were equally delicious, but my favorite combo was the shallot vinaigrette with argan oil.

Fairytale and Petch Siam Eggplants with Purple Ruffles Basil…

The miniature eggplants that I found at the farmers’ market were kept in their original cute form and prepared in a simple pan roast with caramelized onions and a balsamic vinegar glaze. The purple ruffles basil gave the dish a spruced up appearance and a nice tart finish.

Yellow Wax Beans, Green Zebra Heirloom Tomatoes, Burrata, Jamon Serrano, Argan Oil dressing…

I got inspired by a fabulous dish that I had at The Tasting Kitchen in Venice, and I made a hazelnut, walnut and argan oil dressing to go with the beautiful salad.  The deep nutty flavors of the argan oil, along with the grounded hazelnuts and walnuts, complemented the beans and tomatoes.  Toasted cumin seeds were sprinkled on top to add an aromatic layer to this dish that was delicious with the fresh burrata and jamon serrano.

Seared Foie Gras, Mission Figs, Port Wine Reduction…

The whole lobe of Rougié foie gras was pan fried whole to give it an exquisite sear.  The oil that came out of the foie gras as it seared in the pan gave a nice sizzle as the pungent aromas attracted a crowd into the kitchen. Figs were prepared two ways to accompany these chunks of fatty heaven.  Half of the figs were quickly marinated in olive oil, salt and black pepper.  After the foie gras was removed from the pan, the other figs were placed cut side down on the pan to give it a nice caramelized glaze.

15 year Tawny Port was used to make a sweet and luscious port wine reduction sauce.  The plates were garnished with a bit of purslane, and it didn’t take long for everybody to pounce on these plates.  From the oohs and aahs emerging from the dinner table, and the feedback that I got from my friends, this was clearly the best dish of the evening.  I’ve had opportunities to share foie gras dishes with some of my guests at other restaurants in Tokyo and Los Angeles after this birthday dinner, but each time they told me that nothing would ever compare to this foie gras dish that they had at my party.

Yuzu and Rosemary Granité…

After the decadent foie gras dish, and before the roasted pork entrée, I served a yuzu and rosemary granité palate cleanser.  The distinct citrus taste of yuzu with subtle rosemary finish in these ice cold granité shavings was refreshing and invigorating.

Roasted Suckling Pig with Pee Wee Potatoes, Nante Carrots, Baby Spring Onions and Purslane…

As mentioned previously, this gigantic ‘piglet’ had to be broken down into separate parts and prepared individually, as there was no way that the 3 foot long beast would fit into my oven. The legs and belly were rolled and tied, and stuffed with a chopped mushroom and herb mixture that Haru made.  These were roasted in the oven until the skin was crispy and brown.

The riblets were also pan fried with rosemary twigs, then transferred to the oven for roasting.

My favorite part was the pig’s head, boiled for hours until the loose collagen in the skin became soft and wiggly, and the meat fell apart effortlessly.  The head was chopped into small bits and served on the plate with the other parts of the pig.  The gelatinous bits of the skin and ears, and the tender cuts of tongue had an amazing texture and flavor.  Fortunately there were left overs from the feast, and for a couple of days after the feast I simply piled it on top of some warm white rice for a comforting rice bowl dish.

The pee wee potatoes, nante carrots and baby spring onions were roasted in the dutch oven with garlic and rosemary.  These farmers’ market vegetables were amazingly sweet and delightful.

Each plate was also garnished with purslane that was tossed in a light vinaigrette, to temper the heartiness of the dish.  The different cuts of meat were all finished with an earthy flavorful sauce made from pork jus and white wine.

Passion fruit and Madagascar vanilla bean Crème Brûlée…

As predicted, by this stage of the meal, I was quite drunk.  My friends brought over an amazing selection of champagnes and wines, and we managed to go through all 14 of them. All were absolutely delicious and went perfectly with the entire meal.  I practically stumbled to the kitchen to start preparing the dessert.  After coating the crème brûlée ramekins with brown demerara sugar, I leaned against the countertop to try to keep myself from falling over as I burned these custards with my butane torch.  

I kept the passion fruit seeds to use them for garnishing the crème brûlée dish.  I was so proud that these babies came out perfectly.

French cheese plate with Quince paste, Jujubes, grapes and white truffle honey…

A few days before the dinner party, I went to Epicure Imports in North Hollywood to stock up on gourmet import items.  They offer a wonderful selection of French cheeses and numerous other delicacies.  I chose an Epoisse, Valencay goat cheese with ash, Camembert, and a Brillat-Savarin.  At Epicure, I also purchased quince paste and Sabatino Tartufi white truffle honey to pair with the cheeses.  The intensely aromatic white truffle honey went brilliantly with the goat cheese, and it was my favorite pairing.  Sliced fresh jujubes from the farmer’s market also went surprisingly well with all of the cheeses.

Chocolate tasting…

I bought a lot of interesting flavored chocolates from Bovetti and Vosges to try that evening.   Since we were all completely stuffed from the feast,we only tried 3 chocolates from my new collection for the chocolate tasting.  The dark chocolate with Szechuan peppers had a noticeable kick at the end that almost stung my tastebuds.  The dark chocolate with blue mint had a cooling effect on my tongue.  The Vosges chocolate called Black Pearl Bar, which had wasabi, ginger and black sesame seeds, was really interesting.  At first I could taste the ginger, but towards the end the wasabi undertones sneaked in to dominate the finale.  The chocolates were paired with an amazing dessert wine- Chateau Bernadou, Muscat de Frontignan from France.

It was a magical evening of good food, good wine and good company.  There was singing, dancing, guitar strumming and a lot of laughing.  Old friends reunited and new friendships were being made.  It was amazing to see all of these people from different walks of life come together on this one evening to gather around the table to share a special meal with me.  I can easily say that this was the best birthday that I have ever had, and it’ll be pretty tough to top this one.

Random trivia: Did you know that the passion fruit was given the name ‘passion’ by Catholic missionaries in South America who thought that certain parts of the fruit bore religious connections to the Crucifixion?  The corona threads of the flower symbolized the crown of thorns, the 5 stamens the 5 wounds, the 3 stigmas for the 3 nails on the cross, and the 5 petals and 5 sepals as the 10 apostles (excluding Judas and Peter).

Birthday Dinner Party- Part 1, Prep

“Which restaurant do you want to go to for your birthday celebration this year?”

Many of my close friends started asking me this question weeks before my birthday.  My friends know me well, and they knew that my ideal birthday celebration would be all about good food…but they didn’t know me well enough to figure out that I had better plans for my special day.  I couldn’t think of any restaurant in LA that would quite cut it, and I cringed at the thought of making my friends pay a lot of money for an extravagant meal in a stuffy environment.  I’m extremely blessed to have wonderful and caring friends who have been by my side through my ups and downs, and I wanted to spend my birthday with them in a special and meaningful way.  I love going out to restaurants for fine dining, but what I love more is cooking at home with friends and for friends.  There’s nothing I enjoy more than cooking in the kitchen and sharing a nice meal with people I love.  So I sent out an invitation to 12 of my closest friends in LA, and started brainstorming on ideas for my ultimate fantasy birthday menu.  No gifts please, I instructed my friends, but instead bring your appetite, good spirits, and lots of champagne and wine!

My brain exploded with a multitude of fabulous culinary ideas, and I had a lot of fun writing and sketching my ideas down.  For the whole entire week leading up to the big party, my hands were practically shaking from all of the excitement.  I knew that there were a few basic dishes that I had to have, and I consulted my chef friend Haru about ordering these items from the best suppliers.  I wanted to have an oyster bar that served two of my favorite types: Fanny Bay and Kumamoto.  I wanted a seared foie gras dish, as I had a whole lobe of Rougié foie gras from Epicure Imports that was patiently waiting in the freezer.  For the main entrée, I fluctuated between choices like lamb saddle, veal chop and flat iron steak, but in the end I decided to go grand and opted for a whole suckling pig.  The rest depended on what I found at the Santa Monica Farmer’s market.

Going to the Wednesday morning SM Farmer’s market is one of my favorite Los Angeles activities.  There are rows of food stalls with fresh seasonal produce and lots of specialty food items that cannot be found elsewhere.  I found vibrant Green Zebra heirloom tomatoes and yellow wax beans, which inspired me to make a salad dish with burrata cheese and slices of jamon serrano.

One of my favorite vegetable stands, run by a Japanese farmer, was offering some adorable miniature eggplants.  Small round green Petch Siam eggplants, frequently used in Thai cuisine, were calling out to me.  In the box adjacent to them were even cuter small purple eggplants called Fairytale eggplants which I had never used before, but I had to get anyway.

Although I had many ideas about how to serve them, in the end I envisioned a simple appetizer of pan roasted eggplants with a balsamic sauce.  I found some interesting Purple Ruffles Basil at the market to liven up the plating of this dish.

Beautiful purple Mission Figs were at the height of their season, and I found an abundance of them at the Farmer’s Market.  Ah, they would go perfectly with the whole lobe of foie gras!  Coupled with a port wine reduction, this would make for a decadent and delicious plate.

The seared foie gras dish would go perfectly after the salad and before the main course, but since the main course was going to be a whole roasted suckling pig, I realized that there needed to be a palate cleanser between the two dishes.  I had a jar of wonderful yuzu purée that was just waiting to be consumed, so I decided to make a yuzu and rosemary granité.  The bite of rosemary herb coupled with the citrus tang of yuzu was sure to cleanse any palate and refresh any taste bud!

I melted the yuzu purée in sugar and water in a pot and brought it to a boil, and just after taking it off the heat, I threw in a tea bag of freshly chopped rosemary leaves to let it steep in the mixture.  This way the granité would have just enough of a hint of rosemary finish instead of an overpowering flavor.  I saved some rosemary twigs for garnishing.  This dish was prepared the night before to save some time on the busy big day.

I found a ton of beautiful vegetables to accompany the roasted pig.  Small bright orange Nante carrots were super sweet when I sampled them at the stall.  Small pee wee potatoes came in purple, red and yellow, and I bought a bunch of these for roasting.  Beautiful baby spring onions came attached to their stalks and still covered in dirt, just picked fresh that morning. Purslane was at the end of their season, and I bought these as well, thinking that its distinct fresh citrus flavor would complement the heartiness of the main course.

Now what to do for dessert?  I wanted to do a dessert that could be prepared the night before, to save time in the kitchen during the actual party.  I figured that by the end of the meal, I would be quite tired and potentially quite drunk as well.  Cake?  Too boring.  Cupcakes?  Even more boring.  Tiramisu?  I already did that for a previous dinner.  I found beautiful and plump strawberries at the market, and started getting excited about them.  And then I ran into these tropical delights, and my heart skipped a beat.  Passion fruit- perfect!

Passion fruit zabaglione, parfait, mousse, ice cream, cheesecake…I considered many options, but when I rummaged through my kitchen that evening, I came across an old friend that I hadn’t seen in a while, and he whispered to me very softly, “Use me…”  My butane torch was calling out to me, and I knew then that the dessert for my birthday bash would be crème brûlée.  It’s easily prepared the night before, and people get excited when they see it torched.  I incorporated Madagascar vanilla beans into my  passion fruit crème brûlée mixture, and prepared these in the oven the night before.  After cooling them on a rack, they went into the fridge and waited until their grand debut.

For the strawberries that I bought, I opted to use them for a mini appetizer in the very beginning of the meal with the champagne toast.  Strawberries dipped in sugar and freshly ground black peppercorns is absolutely delicious, and it goes extremely well with champagne.

For the end of the meal, I planned to do a cheese plate.  I bought a bunch of beautiful cheeses at Epicure Imports, as well as some accompaniments for these cheeses.  I also found some fresh jujubes at the farmer’s market, and decided to pair these with the cheeses as well.  Finally, for the many chocolate lovers in the attending party, I bought an assortment of unusual flavored chocolates at Epicure Imports to do a chocolate tasting with a delicious dessert wine that I also bought there.

After a lot of tweaking and rearranging, the final birthday dinner menu was officially made on the morning of the party.  The menus were printed, the wine and champagne glasses were cleaned, the silverware was polished, the dishes were stacked, the music CD’s were chosen, and I was ready to go.

Here’s the final menu:

1    Strawberries with sugar and black peppercorn

2    Kumamoto & Fanny Bay Oysters

3    Fairytale & Petch Siam Eggplants with Purple Ruffles Basil

4    Yellow Wax Beans, Green Zebra Heirloom Tomatoes, Burrata, Jamon Serrano, Argan Oil dressing

5    Seared Foie Gras with Mission Figs and Port Wine reduction

6    Yuzu & Rosemary Granité

7    Roasted Suckling Pig with Pee Wee Potatoes, Nante Carrots, Baby Spring Onions, Purslane

8    Passion Fruit & Madagascar Vanilla Bean Crème Brûlée

9    French Cheese Plate with Quince Paste, White Truffle Honey, Jujubes, Grapes

10    Chocolate tasting

The next blog entry will feature photos and details of the actual feast!

Random trivia: Did you know that jujubes have a sweet smell that is said to make teenagers fall in love?  In the Himalayas, men carry jujube flower stems with them or put them in their hats to attract women.