After a wonderful afternoon spent in Pérouges, we stopped by the neighboring town of Meximieux for dinner at La Cour des Lys. The ground floor restaurant inside the hotel, which used to be a coaching inn, has a lot of old world charm. Flowery wallpaper, antique wooden cabinets and tables, and large wooden embroidered chairs with hefty arm rests inside the dimly lit dining room seemed almost a bit too stuffy for the creative food that came out of the kitchen.
The kitchen is now run by Chef Frédéric Navez, who used to work at the famous patisserie Troisgros. Although you can order à la carte, there are a variety of set menu options here. We all ordered the 38 Euro menu called “La Promenade des Plaisirs” with 1 appetizer, 1 main course, and delicacies from the cheese and dessert carts. Indeed, our new adventure of pleasures was about to commence with a wonderful warm escargot cassoulet.
The first appetizer choice was my favorite dish of the evening. The foie gras pâté with fig compote was just divine. It was one of the best foie gras dishes I’ve ever had, and although I didn’t order this dish for my ‘pleasure menu’, I kept stealing some from my friend. The incredibly flavorful, rich and smooth foie gras fumigated my whole mouth with its deep essence.
I ordered the Mosaïque de legumes, de lapin et de ris de veau parfumé au liseron d’eau, jus froid moutardé, a terrine of vegetables, rabbit meat and veal sweetbreads wrapped in water spinach with mustard sauce. Despite its colorful and light appearance, the sweetbreads imparted a very hearty and robust taste to this dish. It was a beautiful feast for the eyes and palate.
One of the main course choices was a filet of dorade. Interestingly, this fish dish came with a cute little accessory- a live goldfish!
As you can imagine, this goldfish became the main conversation piece of the evening. We passed it around the table and each of us played with the little fellow. Although my friend Gregory terrorized it with his fork, most of us played nice and even gave it a pet name. I wonder what it thought of the big dorade filet sitting on the plate in front of it. Gulp….
Most of us ordered the Volaille de Bresse (Chapon Bresson) et Royale de lard, sous une cloche de fumée, pomme purée soufflée a l’huile de truffes blanche. One of my previous blog entries about my trip to Burgundy featured the famous poultry from Bresse. This dish used castrated Bresse chicken, served with an assorted mushroom sauce and presented in a very dramatic way under a cloak of smoke. See the slideshow below for this theatrical presentation.
The chicken dish was accompanied with a foie gras, smoked bacon and egg purée inside an egg shell. We had to sip this warm savory pudding through a straw. I really enjoyed this side dish. I mean, it’s sippable foie gras and bacon! Very cool indeed. Greedy Gregory smashed the perfectly trimmed eggshell to finish off the pudding.
The potato purée with white truffle oil was amazing. I actually enjoyed the 2 side dishes more than the chicken itself, which was quite gamey and robust.
Les délices de la Bergerie: we enjoyed numerous ‘delights’ from the cheese cart. There were many that I had never tasted before, let alone even seen before. The assortment of cheeses included all types made from sheep, cow and goat milk.
La découverte des Plaisirs Sucrés: My jaw dropped and my pupils dilated when I saw this alluring dessert cart. As the title indicates, I was ready to discover these sweet pleasures. My friend timidly asked the server, ‘How many desserts can we choose from?’. To our joy, the reply was ‘As many as you want’. Greedy Gregory asked ‘So we can try all of them if we wanted to?’. The answer was still yes. Marvelous.
So many to choose from, and so little stomach space left…
We each made our own little dessert plate. Mine featured a mini baba au rhum, pistachio mousse, marinated pinapple in syrup, a bottle of rosemary and rose essence water, and a side of kiwi purée playfully painted in a treble clef.
Others had chocolate mousse, chocolate mint mousse, marinated prunes, fruit and custard tart, praline tart, macaroons, and creme brulée. Their plates were garnished with rasperry and passion fruit purées.
We enjoyed our playful and creative meal with a wonderful bottle of 2007 Le Caveau Bugiste Bugey Manicle, a local white wine. I never imagined that we would encounter such an inventive meal at this small historic restaurant. From the goldfish to the smoke presentation, the dainty egg shell custard to the decadent dessert cart, this dining experience is one that I still talk about often.
La Cour des Lys
17 Rue De Lyon
Meximieux, Rhône-Alpes 01800
Random trivia: Did you know that a pregnant goldfish is called a ‘twit’?