Butagumi 豚組- Tokyo, Japan

こだわり、極める。。。

Kodawari, Kiwameru…  These are 2 principle words which define Japanese artistry and culture, and is especially true of Japanese cuisine.  One must understand the intention behind these 2 words in order to truly appreciate the beauty of Japanese food.

こだわりKodawari means an uncompromising and relentless devotion to pursuing something.  It is when special consideration and attention is given to a particular subject matter.  To some, it can even be interpreted as a serious obsession and a stubborn refusal to compromise.  An artisan may show kodawari by continuing to carve lacquerware bowls by hand rather than by machine, by insisting on applying 50 individual layers of the lacquer rather than cutting corners by applying 30 because the resulting shine is not the same, or by etching intricate designs only with that one particular tool that a certain other artisan makes because the other tools do not have the same feel.  A chef’s kodawari may be that he only uses the natural spring water from a certain mountain for a soup dish because all of the 300 other types of natural spring water that he tried did not achieve the taste that he desired.

極めるKiwameru means to perfect and master a skill to the utmost extremes.  It involves unyielding discipline and practice to perfect an art down to the most minute detail.  It often involves years of practicing a particular skill in order to be the best.  It may also involve numerous sacrifices- money, family, time, reputation- in order to perfect an art to a level that cannot be replicated by any other.  However, the end result is a product that is the finest in the world.

Wikimedia Commons/ Danilo Alfaro

In a previous article, I described the culture of raising exquisite Japanese beef.  For the rest of the world, Kobe beef is regarded as the holy grail of cattle, but Japanese farmers have taken their kodawari to a whole different level.  Many have dedicated their entire lives to kiwameru a certain type of brand name beef which is so ideal and perfect that it can silence any food critic.  There is a similar, if not more competitive field for pork in Japan.  You may have heard of Kurobuta pork, as it is served in many fine dining restaurants in the US.  But Kurobuta pork is only the tip of the iceberg- in Japan it is common to find at least 5-10 different brands being offered at any time in a supermarket.

Chef Oishi is a man with a particular kodawari for fine pork, and he has dedicated his life to kiwameru the quintessential Japanese pork dish- tonkatsu.  Tonkatsu, or deep fried breaded pork cutlet, is the ultimate comfort food.   Hearty cuts of juicy pork meat with a crispy panko crust, drizzled with tonkatsu sauce, are loved by kids, housewives and businessmen alike.  Chef Oishi got his first start in the culinary world in a tonkatsu restaurant, after which he went on to pursue French cuisine.  However, in 2005, he came back to his roots.  After traveling around the world in pursuit of the finest pork and the equally fine ingredients with which to make tonkatsu, he opened a tonkatsu restaurant called Butagumi (which means ‘pig clan’).  In his restaurant, he proudly serves what he calls the 究極のトンカツ, or the ‘ultimate tonkatsu’.

Berkshire boar image by Scott Davis

If you were impressed with Maisen and their selection of 5-6 types of pork on their tonkatsu menu, then you’ll be blown away with the 57 brands of pork that Butagumi may offer at any time on their ever changing menu.  Butagumi’s menu reads like an encyclopedia of pork with detailed descriptions of their breed, diet, farming techniques, living space, evolutionary history and reputation.  Each caption also describes the quality of the meat and the flavor of the fat.  The general breeds of pork are Yorkshire, Duroc, Hampshire, Landrace, Berkshire, Spotted, Chester White and Poland China. Other rarer breeds like the Okinawan Agu, Spanish Iberico and Chinese Meishanton also exist.  Most market pigs are crossbreeds of 2 or more of these main purebred stocks.  When was the last time that you ate pork?  Do you know where that pork came from and what kind of breed it is?  Probably not.  Butagumi believes in ‘traceability’ of food.  The majority of the pork brands featured on the Butagumi menu are Japanese and come from select farms.  Farmers raise their pigs in a very specific way to achieve perfect texture and flavor, reflecting the Japanese kodawari philosophy to kiwameru their craft.

Butagumi is a restaurant in a quaint 2 story timber frame house in the middle of posh Nishi-Azabu that looks like a secret hideaway.  This house has remained standing since 1958 even though all of its surrounding structures have been replaced by modern buildings and high rises.  There are inviting lanterns and a white noren sign at the front entrance inscribed with とんかつ ‘tonkatsu’ to welcome you into this metropolitan museum of fine pork.  There are tables on both floors, but upstairs in the semi-private horigotatsu rooms is the place to be.

Butagumi is a purist restaurant, unlike Maisen which also offers deep fried shrimp, pan fried pork dishes and curries.  However, there are a few non-tonkatsu items on their menu such as braised daikon radish with miso dengaku sauce.

蝦夷鹿の生ハム, or Hokkaido venison carpaccio, seasoned with ground white pepper and garnished with cubes of sweet mango, was tender, light and smokey.

Iberian pork rillettes with a sprinkle of pink peppercorns was the perfect complement to our bottle of 2007 Vincent Gaudry Sancerre with its fresh and fruity flavors and silky tannins.

Mie Oysters gratinée was the daily special, and the plump oysters, nestled in their little beds with a blanket of toasted cheese and cream, were delicious.

Of the several salad and vegetable dishes on their menu, the most popular is their Melimelo salad, a bouquet of fresh salad greens, cherry tomatoes and pork salami in a citrus miso dressing.

In Japan, tonkatsu is served in 2 cuts: ロース ‘rosu’, which is pork loin, and ヒレ’hire’, the leaner fillet.  People choose the cut depending on their personal preference or their mood.  The pork is then dredged in flour, dipped in egg and coated with panko bread crumbs before being deep fried in oil.  The finished product is served on a copper mesh which keeps the tonkatsu shell nice and crisp.  Tonkatsu is traditionally dipped in tonkatsu sauce, a thick vegetable based brown sauce that resembles Worcestershire sauce, and enjoyed with shredded cabbage, rice and miso soup.  Chef Oishi takes his kodawari to the max in all of these ingredients for his ‘ultimate tonkatsu’.  He uses a special blend of Taiyu sesame oil and cottonseed oil to achieve that perfect light and crisp exterior.  The panko bread crumbs are made from a special kind of bread that has a subtle sweetness to complement the pork.  Succulent organic cabbage is sliced to order to maintain its freshness.  The koshihikari rice from Ibaragi prefecture is certified organic and steamed in a special rice pot.  The meat is seasoned with Andes rock salt and organic white pepper from Ponape island in Micronesia.  The tonkatsu sauce is made in-house, and it is recommended to dip the meat in a little bit of sauce with each bite rather than to drizzle the sauce over the meat.  This way the deep fried exterior remains light and crisp during the entire meal.  Chef Oishi also recommends enjoying some of the meat with a little bit of salt to enjoy the true inherent flavors of the pork.  All of these rules are just a part of the chef’s kodawari which he wants to share with everyone.  One would be a fool not to take this pork master’s wise advice.

A lot of the pork that was being offered that night was new to me.  I was familiar with Tokyo X, SGP (Super Golden Pork), Meishanton, and Kenton, but I had never heard of Golden Boar Pork, Amami no Shima pork, Yonezawa Sangen, or Ryukaton.  We started with a loin cut of 白金豚 hakkinton, also known as Platinum Pork, which is a crossbreed of Berkshire, Yorkshire and Landrace.  They are raised in Iwate prefecture, and are exclusively given natural spring water from the local Okubane mountains for drinking.  The meat was superbly sweet, and its fattiness was well balanced.

blogs.villagevoice.com

I was excited to try the loin cut of Mangalitsa pork.  I’ve been hearing about this prized Hungarian pork all year, and how it’s all the rage in fine dining restaurants around the world.  Unlike traditional pigs, these wooly pigs have thick curly hair which can be yellow, red, grey or black depending on its type.  Although most breeds of pigs are ‘meat-type’ and produce lean meat, the Mangalitsa is an extreme ‘lard-type’ breed which produces marbled juicy meat that is dense in flavorful fat.  They’re primarily raised on pumpkins and acorns.  The Mangalitsa (spelled Mangalica in Hungarian), was first bred in the 1830’s by the Hungarian Royal Archduke Jozsef.  However, after the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in WWI, coupled with the higher demand for cheaper meat-type pigs, the Mangalitsa almost went into extinction.  Now Mangalitsa production is back on track due to dedicated farmers, and its demand is rising from pork aficionados who have fallen in love with its unique flavor.  Although Mangalitsa pork has more than double the marbling of average pork, it tastes lighter and cleaner due to the fact that the fat is more unsaturated and melts at a lower temperature.  Did you know that the first Mangalitsa pig ever exported to the US was sold to The French Laundry in 2006?  Way to go Chef Keller.

As you can see on the cross section of the Mangalitsa tonkatsu, there’s an overwhelming presence of fat with occasional sections of meat injected within to make a barcode pattern.  Surprisingly, this famed Hungarian treasure, which shares the same DNA as Jamón Ibérico, was light, refreshing and delicate with no heavy aftertaste.

いも豚 imobuta, which literally means ‘potato pork’, is named so because this breed is predominantly raised on starchy vegetables like sweet potatoes, tapioca and sugarcane.  Imobuta is a crossbreed of Landlace, Yorkshire and Duroc, and is prized for its light flavor and minimal gaminess.  It is believed that the potato starches, in addition to glutamine and asparagine from the other components of its diet, produce a unique level of umami that renders this lean meat sweet and delicate.

These fillet cuts of imobuta were lean and light, and cooked to maintain a rosy pink color in the center.  With a high protein to fat ratio, these delightful pieces of imobuta tonkatsu almost tasted like veal.

With the extensive list of pork breeds that you can choose from, it’s easy to get lost.  How do you go about choosing what to have for your meal?  The servers can usually guide you depending on whether you’re looking for something light and lean, fatty and dense, or juicy and full of umami.  If you’re still torn, you can order the Butagumi-zen set which will bring you a sampler of small tonkatsu morsels, each made with a different cut of pork.  These end up being more like hitokuchi katsu, small morsels of ‘one-bite cutlets’, which won’t give you the same satisfaction as finishing a whole thick cut of juicy tonkatsu.  Whatever you end up ordering, a visit to the Butagumi pork museum is sure to open your eyes to a whole new world of pigs and the artisans who love them.

Butagumi 豚組

港区西麻布2-24-9

TEL/FAX:03-5466-6775

営業時間 11:30~15:00 (LO 14:00)/18:00~23:00(LO 22:00)
月曜日定休 (※祭日の場合は営業、翌火曜日振替休み)

2-24-9 Nishiazabu, Minato-ku

Tokyo

Closed on Mondays

Open from 11:30- 15:00 for lunch, 18:00- 23:00 for dinner

Random trivia:  Did you know that pig’s ears are notched so that farmers can identify what month they were born and which sow they were born from?  

Advertisements

19 thoughts on “Butagumi 豚組- Tokyo, Japan

  1. That’s a Great post as always, it is great to have the chance to read a good quality article and Interesting topic with many great points.

    I wanted to say thank you for taking time to share this information.

  2. I run Wooly Pigs, the western-hemisphere’s major Mangalitsa pork producer.

    I am curious about Meishanton pork. How did it taste compared to the Mangalitsa? Is the Meishanton the same are “Meishan” – the Chinese breed? Or is it perhaps derived from the Meishan pig?

    I have written about the Meishan breed. It is very important in pig history; much more important than the Mangalitsa: http://woolypigs.blogspot.com/2009/02/darwin-on-pigs.html

    • Hello Heath, thank you for your comment. What a wonderful and informative blog you have about the beautiful Mangalitsa! Meishanton is the same as the Meishan pig. In Japanese, ‘ton’ means pig or pork. I didn’t get a chance to try the Meishanton in Japan, but now that you’ve peaked my interest, I will try it on my next visit to Tokyo. Do you know if there is any place in the US that serves Meishan?

  3. I don’t know of a restaurant that serves Meishan pork in the USA.

    I know of one farmer who produces them. You could probably buy pork from him, fairly cheaply. I’ve not tried his stuff, and I don’t know what he feeds his.

    I am producing some Mangalitsa-Meishan hybrids. I could sell you some of those. We’ll have some purebred Meishan pigs as a byproduct of that effort.

    I’m very curious to hear how the following compared:

    Iberico
    Mangalitsa
    Meishanton

    E.g. which did you like more/less and why.

    If you can find info about Japanese perceptions of pork from those breeds, I would greatly appreciate it. That is, what do Japanese like about those various choices, and what do they dislike?

    • Hello Heath, I tried to post a comment on your blog but for some reason it didn’t go through. I did some searches on Google Japan and found that there are many restaurants serving Mangalitsa, and many food bloggers talking about it. The general consensus that I get from the searches is that Japanese people think that Iberico pork is more robust and powerful in flavor, whereas Mangalitsa is more delicate, refined and light. If I find any more interesting Japanese articles, I’ll let you know!

      • That’s very interesting. The Mangalitsa pigs are fattened in pens, like these: http://mangalica.com/index.php?menu=galeria&album=nyiribronyitelep

        The Spanish raise their pigs a few different ways. Some exactly like the Hungarian pigs, while some go outdoors for the last part of their lives and eat a different diet.

        The 3 primary factors determining eating quality are genetics, feed and age at slaughter. I suspect that the genetics (Iberico and Mangalitsa) are similar enough that feed and age at slaughter explain the differences in taste – but I’m not sure about this.

        You are very lucky to be able to eat at Butagumi and try the different offerings.

        My company will produce some Mangalitsa x Meishan pigs. Because we have these coming, I’m very curious to hear how the Mangalitsa stacks up against the Meishanton. I suspect that Mangalitsa-Meishan crosses (50:50 or 75:25) will be superb – but time will tell.

        If you would like to visit one of the farms in the USA and see the pigs, please let me know.

      • Hello Heath, it looks like my comment on your blog did go through after all. Some more interesting articles I found on Google Japan. A very famous gourmet magazine called ‘Senmon Ryori’ featured a chef making a classic Japanese dish called ‘kakuni’ using Mangalitsa pork belly.
        http://www.picksalami.jp/topics/media/624

        Pick Salami has a whole page on Mangalitsa:
        http://www.picksalami.jp/mangalica/index.html

        Finally, a blog entry about a recent Mangalitsa pig event at the Hungarian embassy in Tokyo. Interesting photos of people hugging Mangalitsa stuffed animals. In the 2nd photo from the top, there’s a group picture- the tall dark handsome guy on the left is actually my dear cousin Balint Kosa! He’s my half Hungarian-half Japanese cousin who works in the Hungarian Dept of Tourism. 🙂 The 7th photo down is him too, holding a couple of Mangalitsa dolls.
        http://ameblo.jp/cafedepou/entry-10512473927.html

        I would love to visit one of the Mangalitsa farms. Where are they located?

  4. That’s all really neat. Thanks very much for finding that stuff. It amazes me how well the Mangalitsa pig is doing in America and Japan.

    I just got back from a class where they served Mangalitsa neck for lunch. It was very good.

    Your cousin looks funny holding those dolls. Everyone looks funny in their business suits with the dolls. Also, those dolls can’t be Mangalitsa pigs; they have pink noses. Mangalitsa pigs have all black skin.

    The farm you are welcome to visit is in Iowa. The nearest airport would be Des Moines.

  5. Hi Heath,
    I’ll do the best that I can! It says…
    This is a website on the rare and illusive Meishanton, of which there are only 100 pigs in Japan. As a Meishanton breeder, they have been running into several problems. They’ve been breeding 100% pure bred Meishanton (Meishan male with Meishan female), but these pigs, even after 365 days of maturation, don’t seem to develop the taste & fattiness that is desired. Compared to the standard ‘white pigs’, it takes more time and investment to reach the quality that is marketable, to the point that the end profit doesn’t justify the costs. Their Meishan pigs take 365 days from birth to maturation (twice the amount of time for standard white pigs), and is not cost effective.
    Thus, they started experimenting with crossbreeding and arrived at this particular combination: a Duroc male with a Meishan female to create an F1 Meishan (50% Meishan). This achieved the best balance of fattiness and quality of marbling out of all of the combinations that they tried. They presented this meat to the Meishanton fan club (incredible that they even have a fan club, eh?!) and the consensus was: “Delicious”, “Juicy” & “Aromatic”.
    These new crossbreeds only take 270 days from birth until maturity (when they can be butchered) , and therefore cut breeding time by 41%. The superb marbling of this F1 breed turned out to be the perfect solution to the demand for tasty but ‘healthier’ pork for those who have an aversion to pork fat. These days people are starting to appreciate once again that the savor of pork comes from its fat, and it seems so long ago when pork fat had a bad rep.

    Hope this helps!

  6. Thanks very much for your translation.

    It is very interesting to me.

    It is the same with Iberico in Spain and Mangalitsa in Hungary – they produce F1s, by crossing with a high-marbling and quick-growing Duroc.

    I have produced many Mangalitsa x Berkshire F1s. They don’t taste as good as the purebred Mangalitsa pigs. They taste much better than regular pigs. E.g. if a regular pig is a 2, the F1s are a 6, and the purebreds are a 10.

    Heterosis, which is maximized in F1s, makes them tremendously efficient. The German program for Swabian Hall production uses almost exclusively F1s.

    Here’s more info for you on Mangalitsa production, if that interests you. It explains how they cross them:

    http://www.atk.hu/szaktanacsadas/mangalicaws/Toth-Mangalica.pdf

    http://www.mangalica.com/uj/index.php/mangalica/renaissance/en/

  7. just stumbled upon your blog, and i want to tell you that i love love love it!

    the ezojika namahamu is pretty effin epic, but those hairy pigs sure look like they know how to partay.

  8. hello – did grab a lunch here two years ago but the language barrier was a bit difficult to overcome. they did not offer mangalitsa at that time (or on that day, or on the “english” menu) – that would definitely be a treat. i wanted to try iberico but either they a) didn’t understand or b) were out 🙂 i’ve long lost the notes but it was a great experience that i need to repeat.

    • Hi Chuck, it was nice to finally meet you. Next time let me show you around Tokyo so you can get exactly what you want without any language barriers! I took a quick walk through the Ferry building yesterday, and it was amazing. Bought some gigantic Tahitian vanilla beans, heirloom tomato salt, African basil and truffle salt chocolate.

  9. Pingback: My katsu craving « Far from domestic

  10. Pingback: Tonkatsu double-date in Tokyo (Dec ’14) | Kenneth Tiong eats

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s